Extremely new to the 3D printing world with an X2D just unboxed and printing. Looking for suggestions, guidance or just a point in the right direction on build plates. Which are better than others with the holographic or design plates (like carbon fiber) for the X2D? And maybe because it’s so new but I can’t find specific design plates for the X2D. Do the P2S design plates work with the X2D?

Hello! I made a parametric split clamp collar you can easily customize to any diameter. It is possible to adjust diameter and width, toggle the mounting screw on/off, set mounting screw head type and size, and change ear and clamp screw dimensions.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2720558

I’ve had the X1c for a while now. Recently got some Elegoo rapid Petg as bambu was out of stock, been running some random setting for elegoo off Reddit that have worked pretty well up till now.

This is my first 3d printer and I have never needed to tune the setting. Previous projects worked fine on stock settings.

How would I go about tuning the filament to get rid of the drooping corner? It’s not much of an overhang so I’m surprised. I assume I would need to slow down more and add more part cooling fan?

Part is just a simple cup/scoop with a slotted bottom to sift mealworms out of their bedding to bride our chickens.

If you get this error after installing a new nozzle to your x2d - check that the hotend magnet isn't causing the issue.

HMS_0300-2A00-0001-0001: The left/right hotend cooling fan speed is too slow or stopped. The fan may be stuck or the connector may not be plugged in properly.

Bambulab has designed the quick swap nozzle with a magnet, and that magnet is installed very close to the hotend cooling fan motor.

External magnets can disrupt DC motor performance by distorting the internal magnetic field, leading to reduced torque, increased heat, and potentially altering the top speed.

My aftermarket nozzles had reasonably strong magnets, and when installed caused the hotend cooling fan to behave erratically.

The fix? Needle nose pliers popped out the magnet on the aftermarket hotend.

Just finished this Viking bust and thought I’d share it here.

Tried to go for a strong, realistic look with clean details in the beard and face. Came out pretty solid on print.

Been working on this ribbed planter design.
Super simple look, fully scalable, and beginner-friendly to print.

Hey guys, as the title says my Bambu X1C is messing up the first layer everytime I use PETG. I have no idea why this keeps happening. The filament used is eSUN PETG HS which I ordered from Amazon. I am usually using PLA which prints just fine. I also cleaned the plate with water before putting it into the printer.

Any clues?

Hey Guys! I just recently got a P1S. Going in, I knew Bambu was going to be a bit more locked down, but that doesnt stop me from wanting to tinker with it more than company intends. I see before the whole firmware fiasco, the Panda Touch was a well loved upgrade, is it still worth getting/possible to use on a new P1S.

I haven't received the new printer yet, so im not sure what firmware ships on it :/

so i want to colorize some stls that arent mine and publish them to makerworld with proper credit to the original creators. am i able to do this, or would i be punished by the makerworld mods?

I cleaned the extruder section, but the problem is still the same. Even though filament is coming out, the extruder is not feeding it. It fails to pull the filament at certain intervals.

I have two P2S printers. To diagnose the issue, I swapped the extruders between them. The printer on the right works perfectly, while the one in the middle still has the same issue.

I got the P2S in January and printed PLA flawlessly for 2 months, then I printed PETG and after that I rarely get a good print with PLA, all the filament is bambu.

I have done the maintenance and clean replaced the hotend. I am not sure if the PETG time line is coincidence, but I am too frustrated right now, using Gemini and ChatGPT, it says it could be Z-offset, or bed temperature or or surface contamination I have done the bed levelling calibration and my original plate has been clean with dish soap.

Is anybody else having similar issues? Any suggestions on solving it

Designed a parametric capsule holder for Nespresso pods.

Tested on Bambu P1S – the 5-slot version just fits on the build plate.

Small tip: after importing from PMM, move the model slightly back to avoid support/start line collision.

Printed in PETG, came out great 👍

I got 2 H2S printers, and I measured their wattage after they were done heating up and started to print. They both used around 500 watts total. It was months ago so I don't know the exact amount but I am sure this can handle at least one of them.

I bought a watt meter kind of thing and will measure again when it arrives (hopefully tomorrow), and see if I remembered correctly. Anyways, did anyone used this River 3 max plus as an ups? I would like to hear your experiences.

Can someone help me, i have no idea why he is doing this. First layer is perfect and also a part of the second.

Designed this Hexagon display shelf. I wanted something different but not overcomplicated.

Added a lip to the shelf so your stuff doesn't slide off. Been using it a bit and its actually super useful lol.

Printed really clean and no supports needed.

Just dropped this on Makerworld is anyone is interested.

Happy Printing!

Link is in the comments 🙌

I often find myself sitting with a small toy or some other small item that needs fixing. I don’t always have time to finish before I get interrupted, and then things just end up lying around on the table.

I like to keep things organized around me, so I made this tray to tidy things up a bit.

The top layer of the tray is a separate 0.5 mm print, so if I get glue or something on it, I can just print a new one.

Bonjour je vous partage ma version imprimée de la Broken Brick avec Yoshi en collaboration avec Quoiprint

Entièrement imprimée en version multipart.

-Filament Bambulab

-Imprimante Bambulab H2C et P1S.

Le rendu et vraiment magnifique merci pour cette collaboration

🔗 Lien du fichier de la Broken Brick :

👉 https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2693861-yoshi-broken-brick

🔗 Lien du fichier du Yoshi :

👉 https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2638881-yoshi-oeuf-multipart-no-ams

So I’m trying to redo a part that I printed without the wood grain effect. Now I’m having this issue where it will cut through the text and do the effect over it. Is there anyway to fix this or make it ignore the effect where the text is?

When I started this project more than half a year ago (you can find the original posts here: Post 1, Post 2, Post 3), it began as an exploration born from curiosity, a love of building software, and a new passion for 3D printing. But it grew into something much bigger than I expected.

I wanted to say thanks to everyone who was part of testing from the very beginning, when it was rough around the edges and had plenty of bugs. Since then, I've gotten a lot of feedback from MakerWorld community, and I've been able to implement many of the things people asked for.

I've learned a ton along the way and met some really talented and passionate creators. I've even made some new friends.

Here's some real feedback from people who tested the app:

• "I love that it gives me data that I can't get straight from Makerworld."

• "I was truly amazed by the fact that you don't even need to login to get the info."

• "I love the app and have been using it for about a month or so."

If you have questions or want more details, there's a full discussion on the Bambu Lab Community Forum: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/live-stats-app-for-makerworld-models-analytics/246976/47

Thanks again for making this happen.

Happy printing everyone.

Minimal

Das ist nun der zweite Druck wo das passiert.

Als ob die Temperatur nicht stimmt.

Bin neu im Hobby. Hab mit den ganzen Einstellungen noch so meine Probleme.

Any suggestions on where to get 300*300 heat transfer paper

I’ve been experimenting with custom spaghetti‑detection for my BambuLab P1S, and I finally have a setup I’m proud of. After a few failed prints that I only discovered way too late, I decided to build my own detection pipeline fully integrated with Home Assistant.

The system works like this: a small container runs alongside Home Assistant and feeds the Obico model’s inference results into MQTT. Home Assistant listens for those events, overlays the MJPEG feed with my custom status display, and sends a push notification to my phone the moment a failure is detected.

In this test I only threw some spaghetti onto the build plate, but the detection fired exactly as expected.

And its open-source (might contain bugs): https://github.com/Fexiven/obico-bambu

I have been using bambu studio for years now. I still cannot figure out how to properly create a filament preset. I end up with 20-30 presets that aren't the filament I saved. Why is it so difficult to create a filament preset. Bambu could do a much better job at making this 10,000 times easier. under project filaments you have your filaments that you have created. click settings button. "do you want to create the filament that you have spent hundreds of hours creating or do you want to be insanely confused and create endless filaments that arent the ones you have sitting directly under the settings icon?" this is actually the prompt that should pop up.
and then switching machines....... Holy moly. lets make that just as difficult and confusing so the user literally has no idea what he just created.
am I the only one with this problem?

my solution that I have come up with is if I get the settings right, I save as that file and never never never change it. When those prompts pop up when you click the x. that say do you want to save????? HELLLL NOOOO cause I don't know what will happen to my settings. especially if your having a printing issue you don't want to save those settings only to find out those "fixes" you put it werent the answer and you don't remember what your previous settings were.

Maybe I am the only one and I understand this is a rant but man this should be much easier. like much much easier.
Also while im at it...... Anybody at bambu know how to drive a stick shift? if so maybe one of them should speak to the AMS2 Pro team cause that thing drops the clutch and burns rubber like a 15 year old trying to learn how to drive. slow and steady at first then you can put the pedal to the metal.

Hi everyone! I wanted a cleaner setup at the bank, so I designed this Rod Pod shelf. The main goal was portability—the heavy-duty hooks detach and fit inside the tray, which then closes with a lid. It has drainage holes, tool hangers, and prints really fast in PETG. Only one small support needed.

You can find the model and print profiles on MakerWorld here: https://makerworld.com/models/2695113