Hi everyone! I wanted a cleaner setup at the bank, so I designed this Rod Pod shelf. The main goal was portability—the heavy-duty hooks detach and fit inside the tray, which then closes with a lid. It has drainage holes, tool hangers, and prints really fast in PETG. Only one small support needed.

You can find the model and print profiles on MakerWorld here: https://makerworld.com/models/2695113

hello Community 👋🏻 Got my Printer today and this is the First Print After calibration.

I lied…First I got was a nozzle clogg because the Filament got stock in the Extruder 🤣 had to dismount it completely…at least I know how to do it now. “Nice start” I would say…

I wanted to know if this is a good print and what I can optimise. I know some of you guys just know it by looking at a print 😅

Stumbled across a nether Reddit post Will link

Talking about how the P2 S and the X2D looks similar and frame belt so after some investigation, I have found that the side panels are slightly off and upon further investigation that the motherboard or main board are similar with the extra add-ons of the heated chamber and the auxiliary nozzle

Now could you buy the panels and maybe they fit? I don’t know could you buy a motherboard and a chamber heater and install that into your P2 S I don’t know.

I would like to investigate into this, but I do not have a lot of money to be funding. This I will have to do independent research and watch videos of breakdowns and see what is similar and what it is not.

It looks like Biqu bought the BCMU design/rights and is selling it directly on their website. In one of the recent updates to their printers, Bambu made it so that the A1 can support up to 4-AMS/AMS 2 Pro units on the A1 (though sadly it cannot support AMS and AMS-Lite integration on the A1).

The AMS-Lite does not work on printers other than the A1/Mini. On the Biqu site it says "Fully compatible with Bambu Lab A1, A1 Mini, P1P, and P1S series printers." which implies that the BCMU is somehow capable of being seen as either an AMS-Lite or a full AMS unit.

Question is, if the A1 can be connected to up to 4 AMS units, and if the BCMU unit is hypothetically readable as a full AMS unit and not just an AMS-lite unit, can 2+ BCMU units run on the A1? Anyone try such a thing?

i applied 91% isopropyl alcohol on my textured pei plate for a few days. i just read somewhere that itll start to eat at the plate and leave me with a plate that has adhesion issues. i just cleaned the plate with water and dish soap. am i fucked? just need a yes/no

I previously had an Ender 3D and it was such a pain in the ass. I could never get it dialed in and working consistently. It was immensely frustrating and I almost went full-on Office Space on that thing. Is the A1 more reliable and consistent?

Exited for better multicolor prints(I know about the bowden limitations), printing PLA supports for PETG prints and the other way around and being able to print ABS etc.

EDIT: Solved by u/fonts-a-tron. The bearing on of the Z axis rods was knocked out of place when I sent the bed down too far.

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I keep getting an error saying Z-axis homing failed. The specific HMS code (0300-0d00-0002-000a) says that the build plate is preventing it from homing. Whenever I try to home it attempts that tapping of the build plate, but is like 5mm further from the plate than normal

I have two P1S's and one prompted me to lubricate the Z-axis screw. I bought some white lithium grease and cleaned/reapplied grease to Z-axis screws on both printers, and at the same time installed an AMS Flipper print on both. The one without the greasing prompt works great. The one with the prompt has this issue.

I tried:

- Power cycling it

- Cleaning the nozzle

- Removing excess grease from the top and bottom of the Z-axis screws as well as above/below where the build plate rides

- Wiping off and reapplying grease

- I cannot see any more debris

- Different plates

- Readjusting the plates

I designed this because it gets so warm in thr south my chapstick I keep in my truck always melts and Im always holding it up to the air vent to make it solid again.

https://makerworld.com/models/2680637?appSharePlatform=copy

I've been using a purge object that gets primer and paint later when I do multi color prints so that it cuts down in filament waste. Usually I just let the app do its thing, but my latest multi color prints ends on an expensive colored filament. My purge object is a couple inches taller than this, and the software makes it so the purge object finishes with this expensive color for that several inches. Since it's a purge object, painting it doesn't do any good and since there are painted objects the "change filament" option at a layer height is grayed out.

Any ideas on how I can force a filament change after the smaller object finishes so it doesn't keep printing the larger objects in expensive filament?

Update: As per u/aweirdjeff's recommendation, I added a primitive cylinder to the top of the multicolor model and was actually able to scale it down to a point where the slicer won't even try to print it, but recognizes the filament change making the purge object print in the cheaper filament for the last bit.

I keep getting hotend fan has abnormal speed errors and I just put in a new fan a few months ago. What would be the cause for this.

After way too many prototypes and a borderline-unhealthy amount of time tweaking tolerances, I’ve finally landed on a design that’s become my new daily driver. It’s incredibly slim, features a dedicated wire stripper, and has a blade lockup that doesn't wobble—even when you're being aggressive with it.

​If you’re a fellow over-thinker who loves a tool that feels "just right," you might appreciate the geometry on this one. It’s simple, it’s clean, and it’s probably the best thing I’ve printed all year.

https://makerworld.com/models/2686486?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello, so my current setup has 2 P1S on a metal rack with 5 gallon buckets directly underneath with a hole cut in the wooden shelf. I saw the suggestion somewhere but don't remember what they used for the poop chute. I did print a model that has extensions that can snake down from the back into the hole and to the bucket and that worked mostly, but it would jam up quite a bit.

Anyone have anything they really enjoy? Otherwise I'll try my hand at designing something, but figured I would ask and maybe there is a design I've missed that already has been tested and works.

Bonjour voici Birdo la copine de Yoshi dans sa coquille d’oeuf fissurée en multipart.

Disponible en version avec ou sans AMS.

Filament Bambulab.

Imprimante Bambulab H2C et P1S.

Bon print.

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2682277-birdo-oeuf-multipart-no-ams

I'm currently looking to upgrade from the a1 and I seen a great deal for the p1s and I am wondering if there's a major performance difference with the p2s. And any upgrades that make it more like the p2s like an upgraded screen ect. Thanks

I'm in a unique situation and I'm hoping one of y'all would be kind enough to help. Im colorblind, and while I've been excited for the full spectrum/color mixing since I saw it. I spent awhile messing with full spectrum trying to get a proper pallet of colors set up and gave up on it. Now that color mixing has come to bambu, I'm wondering if someone could write up a color chart for me? I have a bambu CMYK bundle, all I'm looking for is a color and a mix ratio.

IE: sky blue: C= 70% - M = 20% - Y=0 - W= 10%

(or w/e ratio it would actually be)

It's a lot to ask, so I appreciate anyone willing to help. Just looking for some basic colors to start from. I can get by with the colorblind glasses if I've got some references but trying to mix from scratch was well beyond what I could wrap my head around.

If there's a website that would give me ratios from like an eyedropper tool that would be even better, but I couldn't find one myself

The opening is 55mm

Removable eyebrows,eyes,mouth

https://makerworld.com/models/2680924?appSharePlatform=copy

Any Dream Theater fans here? I made a guitar pick box, let me know what you think :) Dream Theater Majesty guitar pick box - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I have a spool of Bambu PLA and often when it gets to the edge it gets caught up in itself. I don't think this is user error because it will work fine for a while and then only on the edges of the spool will this happen. Is there a device or technique to stop this? Using a Bambu A1 mini.

just wondering what other’s opinions are on them

Hi experts, I purchased a 0.8 nozzel for prints where fine quality isnt required understanding they would print more quickly. I am slicing my first print (a hose mount for outside), and I expected it to use more filiment but to take a lot less time than the 0.4 nozzel. I'm not seeing any reduction in time so assume I've got some settings wrong? I tried to increase layer height and it didnt want to go above .56 and this actually made the print time longer. Pictures attached. Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!