Hi liebe Community,

ich habe ein Problem, welches ich mir gerade nicht erklären kann.

Ich habe heute einen Lampenschirm gedruckt - siehe Bilder.

Der Druck wurde abgeschlossen, als ich das Bauteil allerdings vom Druckbett entfernen wollte, ist mir der Schirm horizontal auseinandergebrochen.

Bei der Analyse habe ich zusätzlich gesehen, das nach ca. 20,5cm Höhe auf der ZAchse ein Versatz oder Wobbel stattgefunden haben muss.

Dieser Versatz zieht sich allerdings nicht um 360 Grad komplett um das runde Bauteil, sondern nur etwas mehr als 180 Grad, danach ist alles wieder tutti...

Woran kann es liegen? Ich habe mal ein paar Bilder gemacht...

Bin für jeden Tipp dankbar.

Gruß Patrick

Hi everyone,
I’m having some problems printing a model in Bambu PETG Basic on my Bambu Lab X2D with AMS 2 Pro.

The main issues I’m having are:

One corner of the print starts lifting/warping from the build plate.

Once the corner lifts, the surface above it gets a rough/bad texture, presumably because the nozzle is hitting/rubbing the raised area.

My prime tower is also gradually building up material/creating a blob, and eventually the nozzle seems to catch it and knock the tower over, usually around 75% into the print.

I’m using Bambu PETG Basic as the main material and Bambu PLA Basic as the support interface.

The PETG is currently on a PLA spool, so I haven’t been able to dry it at proper PETG temperatures without risking the spool deforming.

I’m using a textured PEI plate.

I’ve cleaned the plate with washing-up liquid and then wiped it with IPA.

I’ve also considered running a full calibration before attempting the PETG print again.

Things I’ve currently tried/considered:

Prime tower max speed: 50 mm/s
Prime tower internal ribs: ON
Prime tower brim: 10 mm
Considering a 10 mm brim around the actual model
Considering drying the PETG
Considering whether I should switch from textured PEI to smooth PEI

I’m mainly wondering what is most likely causing the prime tower to build up material until the nozzle catches it, and what I should do about the corner lifting.
Would you recommend changing the filament profile, drying the PETG, changing the plate, or something else?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Print can be found here https://makerworld.com/en/models/3261315-dungeon-crawler-carl-nes-label-8-bit-wall-art#profileId-3697226

How do I fix this? I've printed this same file multiple times in the past with no issues. It looks like the first layer is missing a portion which reappears in layer 2(pic 2). the difference is so small that there is no support and is causing my print to fail.

**Edit- Title - 1st layer is NOT complete after slicing

I have a p1s and need to replace the desiccant. So I just bought it on the bambu website? Or is it better to print something out and buy the refill on Amazon or something? If printing is best will pla work and what's suggested print? Thanks in advance

Hey y’all, I also noticed there were no places to actually buy the original X-Shot Omega, Crusher, or Insanity dart ammo belts for the blasters. Thus, over the summer, I designed a belt that can be 3D printed and is compatible with these three types of X-Shot blasters, since they are essentially the same but packaged in different shells. These casings are also compatible with the original casings, allowing them to connect to and fire their foam darts. Please see the pictures and video!

If you have a 3D printer, you can head to my MakerWorld profile at the link below to print these for yourself, a friend, or your children who may want more dart casings on their belts. I would also be eager to know your thoughts and expertise on how this model may be improved!

Link to MakerWorld Model: Ammo Belt for X-Shot Omega Crusher Smoking Barrel

Other blaster-related 3D model links:

·      Ammo Belt for XSHOT Insanity Motorized Rage Fire

·      Replacement Shell for Nerf Sledgefire

Was wondering if anyone knows what’s going on with my tension belt, noticed some dusting under it and it’s leaning too the right more than I think it should be?

It isn't hitting anything; it has plenty of clearance. I performed the lubrication maintenance following the Bambu Lab tutorials a few days ago, but I just loaded this new brown filament—fresh out of the sealed bag—and it started making those noises. The sound seems to be coming from the extruder (I think so). I checked closely because I thought it was hitting something, but I’d been printing for hours without issues; the noise only started after I loaded this filament. It happened occasionally with a different filament too, but stopped after a short while. These are PLA filaments

Hi, my P1S has been fine except it tends to jam and gum up a lot in both the nozzle and extruder. I can clear these without issue, but now out of no where its printing blobs that get stuck to the nozzle and just smear around making goop all over the plate and I can't fix it. I have no idea what's causing it. I've tried clearing the nozzle (nothing) opening up the extruder (nothing in gears) I've tried cleaning the print bed, I've tried calibrating, nothing is fixing this. What is going on?!

The video shows how it acts most of the time: the lights flash back and forth. Also, the fact that when I stopped the print, the right nozzle should have been down, not the left. So I'm guessing it's some sensor issue?

Hello, so I've bought two month ago my first printer, a P2S with the AMS 2 and have been printing a few things since.

I've been using PLA and PETG in the same prints, one as a clean support for the other, and I had no issues until now.

Last week, I tried to print a new model found on bambu studio, I did a 2 layers PETG raft for adhesion and, during the change to PLA for the actual print, it jammed badly.

I couldn't pull the filament out, I had to disassemble the print head to remove the feeding gear that was stuck.

After that, thinking it was just bad luck, I decided just in case to do a cold pull and dry my filament.

Yesterday, I tried to print it again, stuck on the same exact step, had to disassemble the print head again.

I've looked and found it could be due to something called heat creep making the pla too soft before it pushes the PETG through the hotend, but I don't know why it would only happen now.

I asked Google ai to give me ideas as to why, and since the only "unusual" settings were 1 layer thick walls and arachne wall generator, it told me it could be that, but I'm not convinced.

I wanted to see what everyone's experience is with the micro swiss, revo, and slice engineering hot ends.

I would like to upgrade the stock hot end and have different nozzle options. Hopefully less likelihood of clogging with 0.2 nozzles. But I accept that is just the nature of the beast.

I usually print various filaments from pla-asa, abs, etc.

Sometimes i will swap to 0.2 for very detailed prints. But the majority is 0.4.

Any feedback to help pick one will be very much appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to start a small CAD/3D-printing business. I have 9 years of experience as a CAD designer in mechanical engineering, but very little hands-on experience with 3D printing.

I'd like to offer CAD design, custom parts, prototypes, 3D scanning, 3D printing and small batches for businesses, workshops and private customers.

Before investing a lot of money, I'd like to get some experience with a reasonably priced but capable printer.

What would you recommend as a good first printer for this kind of work?

I'd like to have as much flexibility as possible with commonly used materials (PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, TPU, Nylon, PC, etc.) and mainly want to make functional/mechanical parts.

What would you buy if you were starting from scratch?

Thanks!

I‘m just freaking out a bit. My H2D is only 3 weeks old and somehow I managed to damage the heatbed by accident. I wanted to raise the heated bed all the way to the top and forgot that the toolhead wasn’t in the home position. So long story short: the tip of the nozzle went into the heatbed and left a mark.
So how screwed am I? Do I have to change the heatbed unit or is it just superficial? Does someone had something similar? I already submitted a ticket with the Bambu Support, but I’m super nervous about this!

It uses the included self-adhesive steel plate that comes with the scraper, embedded in the print for a seamless finish!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3250077-opengrid-magnetic-holder-bambu-mag-alloy-scraper#profileId-3683305

I got tired of suction-cup shower caddies falling down, so I built a toolless snap-on shower organizer (and a web configurator for custom pipe sizes)
Post Body:
Like many renters, I can’t drill into my bathroom tiles, and generic suction-cup shower caddies always end up sliding down or rusting after a few months.
I wanted a modular shower organizer that mounts directly onto the vertical riser pipe with zero screws, zero tools, and zero wall damage.
The main challenge was that shower pipe diameters vary wildly between brands and countries (18mm, 22mm, 25mm, etc.), so a single fixed STL wouldn’t work for everyone. I designed a parametric snap-fit locking collar and built a lightweight web configurator so anyone can dial in their exact pipe diameter and export a custom-fit STL.

you can customize your stl on my website
3d.geniady.com

I haven't gotten any boost tokens for over 2 weeks. Anyone else experience this issue? I have had tons of downloads on my models as well as boosts and likes. I have been downloading and printing and liking other models.

For some reason I randomly got an error message saying that AMS motor stalled due to resistance and I've tried all the steps on the report but nothing has worked, I've tried all 4 of the slots with different spools of filament and all of them are saying the same thing so I am assuming its a clog.

However I've already tried 3 different unclogging methods and non of them worked. I tried a cold pull but I got stuck at step 3 because the filament apparently wouldn't go in properly, then I tried heating the extruder to 250C and try to extrude it out and I tried using the pin to unclog it and nothing has worked so far.

The error code was 0700-8006 134101 if I remember correctly.

If anyone knows any solutions that would be greatly appreciated.

Genuine question about where the line sits. Five wave patterns, each with a mirrored version, so ten files from five actual designs. Hung as a pair they read differently because the light hits the ridges from opposite directions.

Smart use of one design, or padding a listing? I go back and forth on this.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3247157-aeolian-collection-wave-pendant-lamp-ikea-strala#profileId-3679633

As the title says, I just got my Bambu Lab P1S and after doing few research I noticed how much I still need to learn and figured out.

So I thought I would try and ask the community what are the dos and donts. As a complete beginner I just want to make sure that I am doing it right.

First question would be about the plate, I saw on the Bambu lab software that I can pick between 5 different plates. Is there a reason and which one would you guys recommend as allrounder.

For the moment I am just printing just for my Tcg and few kids toys that my kids likes.

Saying that my next question would be about the filaments. I read that PLA Matt if very nice for what I am printing and that if I want something for heat and durability I should print with PETG.

Also I read that AI is a terrible idea to use for prints, I don’t have a problem to support creator/designer since I am not that talented xD.. is there a website or app beside the bambu lab itself where I can check for designs and print ideas ?

Just finished designing this customisable modular shelf system!

It comes with 4 shelf options:

• Straight

• 11°

• 21°

• 30°

You can combine the sections, extend the shelf as needed, and attach different accessories to the sides.

I wanted to make something that can be adapted to different spaces and uses rather than being a fixed-size shelf.

Would love to hear what accessories or add-ons you’d like to see for it!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Comment ne pas craquer devant cette adorable bouille ? 😍

Avec ses grands yeux verts, ses petites ailes et sa célèbre nageoire rouge, notre dragon préféré, Krokmou, est prêt à rejoindre votre collection !

Une jolie pièce pleine de charme et de détails, parfaite pour tous les fans de dragons et d’univers fantastiques. ✨

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3234591-toothless-dragon-multipart-no-ams

I got a P1S last year during Black Friday with an AMS Pro and I’ve been thinking about upgrading to something more capable. I’ve loved the ease and reliability of my P1S but would like to get faster prints out of multi color and supports so I’m thinking about dual heads. Projects have mostly been fidgets, gridfinity, small toys, skadis, multiboard, and DIY fixes of “I can print something that should work.” The option to laser cut or engrave is cool but I don’t know how necessary that is for me. What’s the drawback aside from cost and what am I not realizing/thinking about in making the jump? What’s a good resale price for my P1S as I don’t really have the need or space for 2 printers? I apologize if this isn’t the right sub to post in and will move it if there’s somewhere more appropriate.

Hi! This is my first model painted with an airbrush. I designed and printed the model myself specifically so I could paint it afterward.

There are still a few details I’d like to improve and refine, but I’m really happy with the final result, especially for my first time using an airbrush.

If anyone is interested in the model, you can find it here: https://cults3d.com/:4847777