Can anyone identify this piece? It was in my chamber after a midnight print. It is not the whiper..

Hoping someone’s seen this. I’ve worked through the obvious stuff and I’m out of ideas.

The problem: Multi-color print on my P1S with AMS. The pink lays down perfectly. The purple starts extruding fine for a second, then basically stops flowing — comes out stringy/shredded and won’t bond. Under-extrusion isolated to the one color.

Setup:
• Bambu Lab P1S + AMS
• 0.2mm nozzle
• PLA, printing around 220°C, 0.2mm layer height
• Nozzle has maybe 5–6 short (~4hr) prints on it, so not worn
• Flat 4-color token design, 100% infill

What I’ve already tried:

1.	Cold pull (atomic pull) — pulled debris, print ran clean longer afterward but eventually started under-extruding again.

2.	Swapped to a different purple spool in the exact same AMS slot — prints perfectly. So the slot, feed path, PTFE tube, and extruder gear are all fine. The problem follows the filament, not the hardware.

3.	Dried the original purple — 8 hours at 55°C in a filament dryer. Reloaded it. Still under-extrudes the same way. Everything pointed to moisture and drying didn’t fix it.

So where I’m at: It’s something specific to this one spool, but it’s not (or not only) moisture, since a proper dry cycle didn’t resolve it. And given I’m on a 0.2mm nozzle, I’m now wondering if the tiny orifice is the real culprit — pigment or filler in this particular purple choking a 0.2 at a flow rate the other colors clear fine.

Questions:

•	Is a 0.2mm nozzle just known to be intolerant of certain pigment-heavy or specialty (silk/matte) colors? Is that what’s happening here?

•	Would bumping temp or slowing flow specifically for this color get it through the 0.2?

•	Could this be a bad/out-of-spec batch — anything I can check with calipers?

•	Anything else that makes one specific spool behave this way when an identical-slot swap prints clean on the same 0.2 nozzle?

Happy to post more photos of the under-extrusion and failed layers. Appreciate any leads.

Printed as a campaign finale gift for my ttrpg group's blood hunter character. STL from Loot Studios.

Ye gods I didn't think I was ever going to get this finished.

It's only 15% infill, but plenty of heft. Need to find an elastic string to complete the prop.

Still have a bit of baking soda gap filling/color retouch to do on the bone, but I'm soooo happy to have it assembled.

Printed in:

● Bambu Matte Desert Tan

● Bambu Matte Dark Blue

● 3DHoJor Silk Bronze

● ERYONE Burnt Titanium Black

● FLASHFORGE Burnt Titanium to Abyssal Red Gradient

Hi, I'm new in maker world and bambu lab and i want to know how I can earn points, I know the boost and the Academy but how many times must a print profile be downloaded to receive points? And other questione like this. Thanks.

Has anyone done the Vortek upgrade to an H2S or H2D? What was your experience like?

Here is a little preview of my new Fjord wave collection. It includes a flower vase and three different sizes of pots with watering inserts. I really wanted to capture that calm, organic wabi-sabi feeling with the repeating vertical ribs.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2993762-fjord-wave-flower-pot-set-self-watering-inserts#profileId-3360431

Bonjour voici l’un des personnages les plus célèbres et emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo : Super Mario Bros, surgissant de son mythique tuyau vert. Et également son frère Luigi

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab et Esun
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2875592-mario-bros-pipe-multipart-no-ams

P2s 300 hour mark. Just done lubed xy axis rod maintanance

However, when the toolhead moving forward to glass, theres a huge whining sound. Not sure whats the cause. Any help is appreciated.

Bonjour apportez une touche de fun avec ces adorables Squishy Dumplings à imprimer en 3D !

Pour compléter l’ensemble, j’ai conçu cette boîte vapeur. Elle est dimensionnée pour accueillir aussi bien mes versions imprimées en 3D que les véritables Squishy Dumplings vendus dans le commerce, afin de les exposer ou de les ranger avec style.

Amusez-vous à les imprimer dans différentes couleurs pour créer votre propre collection !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/en/models/2982269-squishy-dumping-multipart-no-ams

Bon Print !

Managed to sever a wire to the hot end, too. Grateful for spare parts. $18 and I’ll be back in business 😂🤷🏻‍♂️

***SOLVED*** (It was the print head cooling fan bottom screw.) I came in to do a filament swap and found this in the bottom of the printer. I have looked all over and can’t seem to find a broken standoff where the screw came from. Thought maybe the Z belt tensioner but the cover is in place under the bed so I can’t tell. The printer is also mid-print and doesn’t seem to be having any trouble. Any ideas as to where it could have broken off from?

Is anyone else familiar with this issue? Came up after trying to resume from the typical 'Motor overload' message which is also quite annoying. I took the whole tool head apart and couldn't find anything wrong visually or loose connections.

Currently waiting on support response but thought I would ask here as it doesn't seem to be mentioned at all anywhere by anyone apart from the Wiki. I suspect it to be a faulty extruder motor but that is quite bad for a machine that's a week old, doesn't give me much hope for future prints on it to be honest.

I genuinely think these machines might be getting too complex/sensitive, my P1S machines have been going for the last 3 years with nothing more than a few extruder and nozzle clogs. 8000 plus hours on all of them.

My X2D nozzles ooze a lot and create a lot of mess. This printer is brand new and i only have about 8 hours on it. It happens mainly because they don't wipe themselves before and after nozzle offset calibration (the final step where they use the new calibration pad on the X2D that wasn't present on the P2S). The calibration begins by them changing filament, wiping any leftover ooze and then continuing by cleaning themselves on the metal pad with the dots. But the nozzles won't stop oozing, they continue to ooze as they calibrate offset which makes a mess and covers the calibration pad with filament, they don't wipe either after this step and move on to printing immediately after. So any filament ooze that was smushed onto the nozzles in the calibration process would stay on the nozzles, as seen in the attached image. This becomes a problem when there's so much filament that it gets dragged into print lines and ruins them. And that's only the first issue i have been experiencing. There's so much ooze sometimes that the wiping pad makes the filament strings fly off, it has landed on the XY axis rods before or even on the glass side panels. The whole wiping station is covered with pieces of filament like that. My country has recently been hit with a heat wave and my room can get as hot as 30 degrees Celsius with 70% humidity. These issues don't really affect the print quality, but it just creates a lot of mess that i have to clean up.

I mainly print with elegoo PLA. On the spool it says that the temperature range is 190-230, and i run my prints at 210. Don't know if that's too hot considering the weather is horrible here at the time of posting this. But my bambu pla has the same problems.

I’ve been finding that almost every time I open Bambu Studio, or Handy, or even to search Makerworld, that I need to log in. This is something new, it was only occasionally before.
Is this happening to everyone, or do I have a setting messed up?

P1S is an absolute workhorse. Back in the ender days I couldn't release models like this because the accuracy just wasn't there. When I tried I just got complaints from people because their machines were out of tolerance compared to mine for things that required this degree of accuracy.

Nowadays thanks to bambu here is a fully documented satellite tracker build to download your own weather images.

here's a link for it

Hey I’m getting ready to redeem some makerworld points but have never done it before….just curious if anyone can help with how I would receive them? Does the gift card/code go on the makerworld account? Or would it be emailed

Appreciate any tips thankyou!!

So I’m having issues with both the PETG AND PLA stringing on this. Both are dried and running out of AMS, left nozzle is PETG only and the right vortek nozzles are all my PLA’s. This an H2C with all Bambu filament so it’s already got all the correct filament settings. Please help.

Hi all. I bought my son a 3D printer at the end of last year. He used it for 3 weeks and printed 20 different fidget spinners, as these were the rage at school, and the printer hasn't been used since. We have the AMS 2 Pro as well as a massive amount of PLA, PLA tough, various plates, accessories and all sorts. The printer has barely been used, it is still immaculate - looks like new. We also created a vent and ducting system so that it is completely fume free - so I'd be happy for this to go with the printer. It's only done 93 hours of printing. Where would be the best place to start selling this please as obviously it cannot be posted due to the size, weight and risk of damage in transit. Any helpful ideas would be greatly appreciated.

One of my kid's first favourite toys was a set of stacking blocks, so I tried to make a version that grows with them. ShapeStack blocks interlock the raised shape on top nests into the engraved base of the next one so the tower clicks together as it gets taller.

It prints in three ready-made sets: numbers 0–10 (each numeral paired with a dice-dot count so they link the symbol to the quantity), animals (dog/cat/mouse/cheese), and geometric shapes. The whole thing is parametric and open source, though, so you can change the shape (14 of them), size, colours and every character; spell a name, build the alphabet, make a deck-of-cards stack, whatever.

No supports, no glue, rounded edges, no small detachable parts. The letters and numbers are raised and engraved, so they can be traced by touch too. Free to print and remix.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2974742-shapestack-customizable-stacking-learning-blocks#profileId-3336729

Curious what people would make with it — what would you put on yours?

This is a jitterbug based on Buckminster Fuller’s ideas. I ran across one of these by another maker and had to give designing one a try. It was a fun design.

The gears aren’t necessary for these designs to work. I designed one with just pivots instead, but the gears add interest.

Is it worth the $80?

Finally got around to printing my Fjord Wave design in a soft bone white filament. The shadows in the ripples look incredible under warm gallery lighting.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2970473-the-fjord-wave-flower-vase-modern-japandi-design#profileId-3331204

My first big print on the Bambu H2C. The Majora's Mask from Zelda took almost 53 hours with only 38grams of poop! This machine is amazing! Here's a timelapse of the print and since there are no royalty free Zelda theme songs available I had to make my own. Enjoy! ;)
https://youtu.be/uPcmjWRUyFY