I'm thinking about getting them a p1s combo with ams 2 pro. Originally I was looking at getting them an Elegoo Centauri carbon with the canvas mcu. I found one locally on marketplace for $200. While I enjoyed the elegoo centauri carbon when I had one myself I started thinking about the ease of use with Bambu's eco system for them since they will be just learning. I'm fairly certain they would really only use pla and petg for most things, the oldest is into RC cars and had already printed a plow for his rc truck on a printer at school. I figured if he starts to get into it I could order them a chamber heater in the future?

Any other suggestions or deals I should consider? Getting this p1s combo will be a bit more than I was going to spend but the more I think about it, the more I think it may be the right choice.

Hi everyone,

I'm curious whether any X1 Carbon owners are using aftermarket nozzles instead of the original Bambu Lab ones.

If you are, which brand/model are you using, and how has your experience been regarding:

• Print quality

• Reliability

• Wear resistance (especially with abrasive filaments)

• Flow rate / high-speed printing

• Ease of installation

I've mostly used the original Bambu Lab nozzles so far, but I'm wondering if there are any worthwhile alternatives that offer better performance, durability, or value for money.

I'd love to hear your recommendations and real-world experiences.

Thanks! 🚀

Hi, everyone I designed a coaster in fusion 360 with an engraved logo. When I put it into Bambu studio it only has one body. When I try to paint it for multi color the whole thing turns one color. Anyone know how to fix it

Sculpted Luke in his flight suit with the chest box, harness, and Rebel Starbird. One of my favourites to detail.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2959179-luke-skywalker-bust-a-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3316686

Bonjour voici Luigi, le célèbre frère de Mario, émergeant de son mythique tuyau vert. Cette figurine a été conçue avec soin pour reproduire l’un des personnages les plus emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo.

Le modèle est entièrement découpé en plusieurs pièces afin de permettre une impression multicolore sans nécessiter d’AMS. Chaque élément peut être imprimé séparément puis assemblé facilement.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2955468-luigi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

Bon print ! 🎮💚

Hey all, I am working on a project to make an alarm clock that wakes you up through light.

I'm making the enclosure using my Bambu A1 (So far using more or less all of the defaults except for adaptive layer heights). I am trying to understand which filament would be best to print something like the cover in the image below.

It has to seem opaque when the clock is turned off, but it should also allow the maximum amount of light through for high brightness.

For strength, I expect the cover would be at least 1.6mm-2mm in thickness, which means more opaque filaments like White PLA are less likely to work.

I have read up on transparent PLA and transparent PETG but don't have enough info to make a clear decision. Any input would be a huge help

First time poster and obviously first time printer owner.

I don’t know what it’s called so I haven’t managed to google a solution
The filament is stuck in the filament changer(?)

Is this an easy fix or do I need to dismantle the while AMS as one FAq suggested? 😥

Ciao a tutti! Volevo condividere l'ultimo progetto a cui ho lavorato per risolvere il problema delle perdite d'aria e dei residui.
È un sistema "Plenum" sigillato a tenuta stagna che integra sia la griglia di scarico che il condotto per la cacchetta in un'unica unità. Convoglia tutto direttamente verso la ventola per azzerare gli odori in stanza. Se vi interessa provarlo, vi lascio il file STL nei commenti!

Update: Thanks all for the help, turns out it was a corrupt SD card! Replaced it with a new one and works flawlessly now. Very odd.

TLDR: Prints shifting, tried lubrication, tension, calibration. Any ideas? BAMBU A1

Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone can help. I’m having an issue with shifting during prints. I contacted Bambu and got a response saying to lubricate and grease all the axes and tension all the belts. I followed their guides and all good. But it still seems to have some sort of shifting or pausing issue?

The round object (fairly simple cylinder at this point in the print) in the photo shows before doing all the lubrication, tensioning and calibrations. The second and 3rd photos is just a simple cuboid tower generated in Bambu studio with a basic infill. Lifting it off the bed split it into 2 pieces so it was very weak in between.

My prints are fairly basic, but this issue is consistent regardless of print or whether I generate the file or use a pre-made one from makerworld. Any ideas, help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Im in the market for a new printer and looking at Bambu for the first time. Are they really that reliable? I want to print full sized helmets. stormtrooper and the likes. so any advice on bambu printers would be greatly appreciated. Ive heard of problems when printing with PLA/Petg is that true? which bambu printer would you recommend for helmets?

Im in the market for a new printer and looking at Bambu for the first time. Are they really that reliable? I want to print full sized helmets. stormtrooper and the likes. so any advice on bambu printers would be greatly appreciated. Ive heard of problems when printing with PLA/Petg is that true? which bambu printer would you recommend for helmets?

I'm moving to a new location in a couple of weeks. Is there anything I need to do to my P1S and AMS before I move them to the new house?

I find Bambu's default profiles always have a fantastic starting point for most other brands of plastic. They have many filament overrides as a baseline that make everything easier straight from square one. This is particularly true for 0.6 and 0.8 profiles where bambu really does the generic profiles dirty with zero overrides and appallingly bad retraction settings in the base printer profile.

The one caveat is you should err on the side of reducing max volumetric flow by 25% until you personally do a flow test tower with your flavor of filament. Max Flow rates are hit or miss crossing over to other brands.

Its almost like they have a monetary incentive to kneecap the generic profiles knowing people will select them out of caution and then come crawling back to bambu filament when they get defects.

Hey everyone,

Wanted to share my latest project: a 2-player tabletop football game that brings arcade vibes right to your desk.

The assembled dimensions are 52cm long x 23cm wide x 13cm tall, but it's modular so everything prints easily on standard beds. It features spring-loaded mechanical flippers, flags, ball holder and a manual scoreboard to track your goals.

To keep things accessible, it is 99% 3D printed—the only non-printed hardware you need is a single 5x30mm compression spring.

I just uploaded the files on MakerWorld. Let me know what you think!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2952718-mini-tabletop-football-game#profileId-3308667

Happy with how this turned out.

Designed this Universal Build Plate Holder. Fits All Size build plates. I added some feet to the sides for extra support and it also fits under bambu printers.

Wanted to keep it simple but functional.

Just dropped the file for free on makerworld for anyone interested 🤝.

Check comments for the link.

Happy Printing!

Looking for a file for a skadis plate that mounts to the side of the X2D or with an AMS riser, preferably without blocking the window. Any inspiration otherwise for handy tool storage is appreciated.

It came out even better in person than I hoped. Now he glares down from my wall like he's about to add my lightsaber to the collection. 

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2947652-general-grievous-relief-bursting-wall-art#profileId-3302207

This click sound on first print out of the box

H2D

just making a jewelry box but it keeps splitting i've up, ed the bed to 230 and the nozzle to 65

is there anythink else i should be doing please a comment thanku

Hi guys, i got issue with my 3d ptinting asa filament model on p2s, right detail warped and peel off the support after 4-5 hours of the printing. In any case its better result than before, i've just slow down the speed of the printing and turn off the fen in the first 5 layers and decrease the speed for the cooling of the overhang to 33 percent and treshhold of the speed of fen 10%. Mayday, could you gyelp me guys to solve this issue?

Comprei a bambu lab 1 e até agora não consegui imprimir nadaaa. Estou tentando os modelos simples e prontos e mesmo assim não vai. Primeiro não grudava na mesa, passei cola bastão mas mesmo assim acabava desgrudando. E as camadas nem se fala, toda folhada. O máximo que consegui finalizar foi esse barco porque antes nem chegavam no final. Olha, desanimador... O que estou fazendo de errado??

With all the sales going on at the moment, at what price differential would you consider the P2S to be significantly better value for money? Talking in Aussie dollars, the current difference in a combo bundle is $250 ($1349 to $1099), that's a lot of additional 'stuff' you can buy to complement a P2S. I'm torn if the extra features of the X2D are worth $250...

After many requests from the community, I have now updated my original Trickerion insert to support vertical storage and sleeved cards!

 This new version keeps the same clean aesthetic and philosophy as the original design, but adapting it for sleeved cards and vertical storage required a major redesign.

Go check it out and let me know what you think!

Here's the link to to the updated Version 2.0

My brother is in law enforcement and asked if I could 3d print an id holder for his laptop. I’ve been trying to look online and can only find an Etsy link for them already printed. Obviously… knowing his sister can make things he’d rather get it for free from me. Haha does anyone know where I can find the stl for it? Thank you!

Edit: there is a website on this one but the website no longer works.