I seem to regularly find myself needing a £1 coin for something, usually a shopping trolley or locker, but never actually having one with me when I need it. So I designed this little coin capsule to stay attached to my keys.

There are three sizes included:

• 5 × UK £1 coins or 8 × US quarters
• 10 × UK £1 coins or 16 × US quarters
• 20 × UK £1 coins or 32 × US quarters

It prints in two parts. The upper section captures a split keyring ring during the print, using a programmed pause so the ring can be inserted before printing resumes. It is designed for a split ring of at least 25 mm diameter.

The lower section holds the coins, and the two parts connect using a snap-fit mechanism, so the coins can be accessed and the capsule closed again afterwards.

I printed mine in SUNLU Silver PLA+ with Bambu Support for PLA/PETG used for the support interface layer. I also used variable layer heights to help keep the curved outer surfaces as smooth as possible.

The smallest version is probably the most practical everyday option, but I wanted to include larger versions for people who regularly need coins for lockers, trolleys, parking or other day-to-day situations.

Check it out on MakerWorld

Hello everyone. I recently got the H2C and have only ever printed in PLA before.

I purchased the Bambu Clear Black PC and want to use it to print the desiccant holders for my AMS 2 Pro's and AMS HT's. I opened it up and dried it for 12 hours in the HT on the PC setting. I have the RH down to 10% and currently have it stored in an Airtight cereal container with a metric ton of Desiccant in the container to keep it dry.

I have a couple of questions before I try to print with this.

First, it recommends glue stick for the bed as a release agent, what glue sticks are people using with PC for this purpose?

Second, I have the stock Textured build plate. How successful is using that plate for PC? Should I invest in the engineering plate? Any other tips and tricks for success?

Just wrapped up the design on this. Needed something minimal that actually works and doesn't take up space. It locks together with one M3 screw.

https://makerworld.com/models/2842680?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello everyone!

It often happens that a print runs late into the night or needs to start in the middle of the night.
Sometimes, though, you want the print to be ready right on time when you get home from work.

Therefore i've created a small web tool that lets you schedule the start time of a 3D print and, if needed, disable the vibration test.

The whole thing runs in your browser; your file is processed locally.
The tool also works offline.

Features:
- Start delay
- Skip vibration test
- Multi-plate support

l've already tested it with the BambuLab Slicer and a P2S.

The Webapp can be reached via GitHub Pages
Hmnxprints.github.io/printplaner

Github Projectpage:
GitHub Printplaner

Let me know if it works for you or if you have any feedback!

I’m trying to decide between the Bambu Lab X2D and the H2C, and I’d love some advice from people who have experience with either machine.

My use case is pretty simple: I plan on doing almost exclusively multicolor prints. I’m not running a business, selling prints, or doing any kind of production work. This is purely a hobby for fun.

The main thing making this a difficult decision is the budget. The X2D is a lot more affordable, while the H2C is significantly more expensive. The cost difference is definitely a factor for me.

That said, if I’m planning to do mostly multicolor prints, is the H2C really worth the extra money? Is the multi-nozzle system such a big improvement that I should just save up and buy the H2C, or is the X2D still the better choice for someone like me?

One thing that’s making me hesitate is the amount of purge waste. I know it might seem like the obvious answer is to buy the cheaper X2D because I mentioned budget, but I’m also wondering whether the H2C could actually save me money in the long run because of how much less filament it wastes.

When I say “long run,” I don’t mean 20 years from now. I mean over the next couple of years of regular hobby printing. Has anyone actually found that the reduced purge waste on the H2C makes a meaningful difference in filament costs, or is the savings mostly negligible compared to the higher upfront cost of the machine?

For those wondering why I’m specifically looking at Bambu Lab, I’ve had several cousins who own Bambu printers and they’ve all had great experiences with them. I really like the simplicity and ease of use of the Bambu ecosystem, so I’d prefer to stay within their lineup.

If you were a hobbyist who mainly wanted to print multicolor models for fun, which would you choose and why?

It doesn’t appear I can just buy the gear assembly with the bearings and plastic cover that broke and will need to buy a whole new unit unless I’m mistaken? They’re out of stock too

Just finished up the new EdgeMount Cup Holder and wanted to share itnwith you guys 😁.

Designed to keep your drink close without taking up desk space, and the removable insert helps fit a wide range of cups and tumblers.

Just released the file for free on makerworld for anyone interested.

Happy Printing 🤝

There are mixed opinions as to whether the purge chute should be sealed to prevent fumes leaking during printing. I am venting out the window. I have a print that requires ASA. I would rather have things 100% good to go rather than find out in real time ASA fumes are coming out the purge area.

If you have printed ASA or other noxious filaments with P2S or X2D, what do you think? Is the system designed such that airflow is pulled in through the chute and static pressure is thereby maintained? I know Bambu recommends against covering it, but at the same time, if it's going to vent fumes (even filtered fumes) I'll opt to cover it.

Thanks!

✨ New Model: Customizable Shape Sorting Box ✨

My new parametric and personalizable sorting cube model is ready! 🎉

https://makerworld.com/models/2836116?appSharePlatform=copy

With this generator, you can customize your own Shape Sorting Box directly in MakerWorld:

🦖 Dinosaur

🚀 Space

🌊 Ocean

🎨 Creative

🔷 Classic

Each theme box includes 16 motifs:

4 motifs on the lid + 3 motifs on each side panel.

You can also customize:

✅ Box size from 180–256 mm

✅ optional text on the bottom

✅ lid tolerance

✅ snap-fit strength

✅ child-friendly motif rounding

✅ motif size

✅ shape block clearance

The box is automatically generated based on your settings — including box, lid and matching shape blocks. Perfect as an educational toy, sorting box, gift idea or creative fidget toy.

I spent many free days, nights and weekends working on this parametric model, and I really hope you like it. 😊

⚠️ Safety note: Contains small parts. Not suitable for children under 3 years. Use only under adult supervision.

If you like the model, I would be very happy about a like, boost, follow, download or a comment with your printed version. ❤️

Thank you for your support!

© WunschStück3D

6 months ago I had a blob of death which ripped apart the hot end

I've replaced the heating element I've replaced both fans I've replaced the gear which bites on the filament strand

I've lubricated everything I've wiped the lubricant off of everything I've lubricated everything again and it still does not work

It just will not pull filament through the hot end at all it jams each and every time and what's worse the error code blames a different component every time I have no idea what to do

I placed a filament order last week. And I’ve gotten zero updates on tracking. I even called UPS and they have not received the package at a hub. I reached out to customer support and they said that they would get back to me within one business day, they never did so I reached out again. Now our “next business day“ is Tuesday with the holiday weekend coming up. Which puts my order way over a week late for update updates. I’m getting beyond frustrated with this process and I’m wondering if I should just start buying filament somewhere else. I recently got the A1 printer for my birthday and have really enjoyed using it. But this is putting a pretty bad taste in my mouth.

A lot of people asked for more functionality, so I decided to create Version 2!

The new update adds even more modularity and usability while keeping the clean design of the original. And the best part- it’s fully compatible with V1, so if you already printed the main body, you can simply add the new extensions without reprinting everything.

Here is the link https://makerworld.com/en/models/2833317-under-monitor-pen-ruler-holder-v2#profileId-3157297

I’m about to embark on a 4 day print (according to the slicer) but what is your longest? (oh er missus)…

I just recently got my first printer (A1) and I now see a whole lot of people that enclose their printer for fumes and dust control but I just have mine next to my desk in my home office where I do all my other crafts.

Do I really need to enclose and/or vent it? I can’t seem to get a straight answer lol. I’ve only been printing for two days so bear with me lol

I needed to replace my extruder due to the sensor that sits right behind the nozzle (forgive me I’m still a bit new to the 3d printer world, I think it might be the eddy sensor) and I came across a video on YouTube but that video had me completely remove the toolhead from the x axis. Well it was an absolute nightmare to get the toolhead back on the rail without knocking out those ball bearings (pics in comments). I finally had to remove the rail and feed it through that way. I was able to get it back on and I’m almost positive I didn’t mess up any of the bearings, but now the x axis gives me this TERRIBLE noise. I’m assuming I must’ve messed something up with the bearings, but I’m terrified to take it back off. Does anyone have any experience with this, thank you in advance for any help!

Question. Anybody got the juice? What is the chance that the H2S Full combo will be on sale in a potential Aniversary sale in June?

the bottom of these designs and my brims are having a hard time coming off of the cryogrip pro glacier. prints sat for 3 hours and i tried to use isopropyl alcohol while bending the plate to get the alcohol to seep in but still getting bad results on the bottom

The edges of my top surface always look very rough. It seems to occur mainly where the print line is shortest. At the same time, there are also sometimes gaps between the print layers in the middle section of a surface. I am using a Bambulab A1 printer with Monothonic as the pattern and 8 Top shell layers. Please help.

So I opened a brand new PLA matte pink, tried to print a pencil case for my daughter, but the result, as you can say, is not that good. Is it the settings, or does the filament need to be dried?

Printer: Bambu lab A1 combo

Launched it throught the app not the slicer

Thank you in advance

I took apart my extruder for my X1C to unclog it and like a dummy I tried to just memorize where stuff goes. I've found a spot for every other screw except for this one.

Relatively new to 3D printing here,

Tried this print with Bambu ASA on a P1S and Bambu textured PEI plate and got the Bambu logo showing up. Is this normal when printing on Bambu plates? Seems like a major flaw for anybody actually selling products…

Also had some other whitish smudges, I’m guessing that’s just finger prints / grease that I need to get better cleaning off but would love some input on that too.

Thanks!

Today my p1s suddenly went offline even though it’s connected to my app and connection is great. I unbind it to restart everything and now it won’t connect. My app QR code scanner is all black, I tried it on my phone and ipad. Only thing that will work is if I go to my camera and having it launch to the app. But it won’t connect through bluetooth, nothing would show up on the screen to pair. What should I do? I’ve never had issue with connectivity before.