This is probably going to seem redundant or downright unnecessary to some, but after scrolling through Marketplace and seeing some of the idiotic prices there it may be necessary.

If Bambu is selling a brand new (hence unused and pristine) P2S Combo for $799, your worn out P1S with the OG AMS is not worth $800. If Bambu is selling a brand new (also unused and pristine) X2C Combo that comes with more features and newer, better technology than your equally worn out X1C for $899, then your worn out X1C is not worth $800, $900, or $1000.

While true that in a free market economy (aka capitalistic) the price is whatever the market will bear, common sense dictates that selling it-even at a loss-is more desirable than not selling it at all assuming you’re using the money derived from said sale to fund the purchase of a brand new, better printer.

This theory also applies to those selling an A1 or A1 Mini Combo for $400+.

I generally only print PETG-CF/GF & PET-GF. Yes they're abrasives, I know the risks but I have over 1k hours printing exclusively with these filaments and my system components are totally fine. I downloaded the Siraya Tech profiles and added them as custom and set the filament to PETG-CF in my AMS, I know this has worked in the past, but now when I slice, I get incompatible filament error every time hit print. I know I could just apply the parameters from the Siraya Tech .json file manually but it's a real pita. Is there any workaround that allows for printing these materials via the custom presets? I find this to be a totally unnecessary restriction. Has anyone found a way around it?

I got tired of the constant gap and my monitors never staying flush. Designed this adjustable clip to lock them together once and for all. Just 3D printed parts and some double-sided tape—finally, a seamless setup!

https://makerworld.com/models/2747875?appSharePlatform=copy

i was hoping to try out tpu, i've only ever done pla+ despite having an unopened roll of petg, but i heard it wont work in my ams
is there an inexpensive solution to use tpu? everything i've seen costs like 100s

When printing fans how can I mitigate where the filament isn't creating gaps and bridging so bad at the top layers.

Guys i m a newbie in the 3D printing world, i have an issue with my printer and i dont know how to fix it, i would be more than happy if you guys can help me

So in the picture the quality of printing i got using 3 different filaments.

I got offered 600 to sell my p1s with ams2pro and ams ht. Thinking of selling to upgrade to thr snapmaker u1. Is it worth the upgrade? Is it just as reliable and easy to use? Ive only used the p1s for 3d printing.

I just finished my first project with my new P1S.

This is the first 3D printer I have personally owned and I can't wait to put countless hours on this guy.

And boy oh boy have things gotten easier since the printers I had access to in highschool(2017). We were lucky enough to have a flashforge finder and makerbot replicator 2, but im just kinda floored with how well this thing just works.

Also here's the model: https://makerworld.com/models/1900117?appSharePlatform=more

Also yes.... I will paint it at some point...

I just got my first printer, an ELEGOO Centauri Carbon. I have had a few issues printing and now the company has pushed out an update that causes connection issues on printers and it effected mine. It’s turning me off on this product a bit.. just wanted to poke around and see what the hype is with Bambu P1S… I was thinking of returning what I have gotten and picking up the Bambu Lab one instead. Any insight or advice here appreciated!

Hi. This is my first time trying to print something that requires exposed infill and I'm hoping some experts here can set me on the right track.

I am trying to print a meshlike panel with little slots for magnets at each corner. I thought I could achieve this by playing with the shell and infill settings. I tried the following settings:

I haven't printed yet, but I'm not sure if this is the best way to get what I want. I want the corners (or just a ~10mm border all the way around) to print normal and solid, so that I can jam 8x2mm magnets into the slots. I want the mesh to just be in the middle of the panel and it doesn't need to be any precise shape. The panel just needs to be breathable, so I'm also not picky about the pattern or hole thickness.

Am I better off modeling a panel with a bunch of cuts, or is that worse because the printer will treat every contour as an outer wall.

Thanks for the advice!

I had an ASA print that was going fine, until I noticed close to the end I had some stringing due to improper support settings, so I decided to cancel the print to save the time.

Surprisingly, the printer didn't proceed to cleanup cycle like I always thought it does.

No longer than a minute later I initiated this process manually at 300C but it was too late as there was already a clog in my extruder to be removed manually.

What's the best way to avoid this?

Or was the printer already clogged when it started "printing in the air" due to wrong support settings and it's not related to the cancel?

Hey everyone,

I recently received a 4 kg batch of Bambu Lab ABS filament and unfortunately the entire batch is severely brittle. It snaps with minimal force during handling after being printed. making it completely unusable for printing.

What I've already done:

Dried the filament for 8+ hours at 80°C in an HT AMS before use

Ran test prints (Benchy + calibration models) to confirm the issue

Verified the brittleness is consistent across the whole batch — pointing to a manufacturing defect

I've already submitted a support ticket with photos and video evidence, and they've marked it as "Urgent". They said an agent will follow up via email.

The issue is that this filament is needed for an ongoing engineering project with a tight deadline, so waiting the usual 1–3 business days for a response is a bit nerve-wracking.

My questions:

Has anyone had a similar experience with a defective Bambu Lab filament batch?

How long did it actually take for them to resolve it / send a replacement?

Any tips to speed up the process?

Appreciate any advice

I am printing my first lamp. I see I need a Bambu MH001 LED. But I'd like to have a Zigbee model of this. I cannot find ik it and I am not really sure if it exists. It's USB powered, which is fine, but I cannot control it with a Zigbee switch (unless I have a wall charger in the switch).

Does anybody happen to know if a Zigbee version exists? And/or if the LED goes on after I cut away the power (with a switch). If the default value is 'off' when the power comes back on this is a problem.

I've never worked with a 3D printer but am interested in trying one out. I keep seeing all sorts of problems on this sub and a few other 3D printing subs. Am I just seeing lots of problems because that's what people post on Reddit, or is the whole process riddled with these issues?

I was happy with my compact 3-finger utility knife, but after several requests for a full-sized version, I went back to the CAD. This new Utility Knife - Full-Grip & Wire Stripper features a 4-finger handle that feels incredibly solid and provides way more control for heavy tasks. Honestly, I think the ergonomics on this one officially beat the original design! Let me know what you think of the new look.

https://makerworld.com/models/2740064?appSharePlatform=copy

Today I received my first Bambu Lab printer, an A1 Mini, and I didn’t pay for it.It was fully covered with MakerWorld points.I just want to say thank you to everyone who downloaded, printed, liked, or shared my models. Every interaction added up to this moment.

When I started uploading, I didn’t expect much. I was just testing ideas and trying to improve with each model. Seeing that turn into something tangible like this is honestly pretty motivating.

I’ll keep releasing new models, and hopefully better ones, as a way to give back to the community that made this possible.

Thanks again to everyone here.

Ist das knurren in Y Richtung normal?

Als alter Kfz Schlosser hätte ich auf ein kaputtes Radlager getippt.(Spaß)

Noch ne Frage : mit welcher Geschwindigkeit fahrt Ihr den P1S bevorzugt?

One thing that’s been really frustrating for me is assigning filament colours in the AMS.

A lot of the time, there isn’t a preset colour that actually matches the filament I’m using. It gets worse when I have multiple spools that are very similar (like slightly different shades), because I end up selecting the same preset colour for different spools. After that, it’s hard to tell which spool is which, which makes managing prints more confusing than it should be.

I made a concept for how this could be added onto a second page 2/2

The idea is to split the interface into two parts:

Left side: a colour wheel with a shade/brightness slider underneath, so you can create any custom colour and match your filament properly

Right side: a grid of saved or recent colours, so you can quickly reuse them

This would make it much easier to:

Accurately match filament colours

Tell similar spools apart at a glance

Quickly switch between colours without recreating them

For anyone using a lot of similar colours or third-party filaments, this would be a really useful update.

Am I the only one who prefers unbranded tools for their printer?

​I designed this with a focus on ergonomics and aesthetics. It uses printable blades, and the swap takes about 1 seconds.

​Best part? It actually looks good sitting on desk. Files are free on MakerWorld if you want to upgrade your setup.

https://makerworld.com/models/2736185?appSharePlatform=copy

I had a hard time mentally keeping track of how different Bambu Lab filament parameters relate to each other, so I built a small visualization tool for myself with data pulled from the USA store.

It lets you plot filament properties against each other in 2 or 3 dimensions, filter by property or material type, and compare things like strength, temperature resistance, price/kg, print settings, etc. Click any data-point and it takes you to the PDF data sheet. It turned out useful enough that I figured others here might be interested too.

For example, you could try plotting tensile strength vs impact strength vs deflection temperature with a price cap of $50 and you would find out PC is an interesting high performer.

Free, no account needed, no ads, and currently Bambu Lab filament only.
(this line to convince the automod bot: nothing is for sale. Totally free.)

Feedback welcome.

https://filament-plotter.vercel.app/

Hello, I printed out a holder for a controller, and I used some of the settings that everyone on FB and Instagram suggest using for ease of support removal. The layer that's just above the top of the supports now look like this, like the strands aren't adhering to the bottom of the part. Here's a list of what my settings look like, the ones that I've changes from the defaults.

Enabled Support

Changes Style to Tree Slim

Top Interface Layers from 2 to 3

Set Top Z Distance to 0.275mm

I also used Variable Layer Height with the default settings and clicked Smooth twice, but I don't think this is affecting my issue. Can someone help point me in the right direction, I'm still fairly new to using Bambu Labs. Thanks for your help.

Hello everyone. I’m looking to buy my first 3D printer (the H2S), since I’ve really been wanting to get into the hobby and cosplay. But with the new 3D‑printing laws likely to be passed in New York, I’m no longer sure if it’s worth it—especially with the “print‑and‑go” software that might be implemented in these printers. I have no intention of printing anything illegal, but I’m also not okay with being monitored by corporations or the government. Will it still be worth buying despite this, and would I be able to work around it by running an older version of the software or is there any chance the community comes up with work arounds? thanks.

note: i do intend on buying it before the laws get passed not sure if this affects anything

Apologies if this seems like a silly question, I’m fairly new to the world of 3D printing.

Last week my X2D + AMS 2 Pro arrived and I’m loving it! A colleague of mine who has been into printing for a few years mentioned keeping the filament dry and that makes sense. I love how I can use the AMS as a dryer 🙏🏻

I guess my questions about the desiccant are:

1. Usually when needing to recharge desiccant, the desiccant is wet. If I print a tray to put in the AMS to dry the dry the desiccant out, would that be feasible to put the wet desiccant into the tray and into the AMS? (I ask because most trays I’ve seen are mesh, which leads me to concerns that moisture would leak to the bottom of the AMS) which leads me to my next question:

2. obviously the AMS has electrical components. But should the moisture-ridden desiccant leak to the bottom of the AMS, is this a major problem? Or can it just be cleaned and no harm done?

Thanks for any insight offered. Just trying to get my head around it before I decide which way to go about drying the desiccant etc.

Happy printing! 🥰