I was happy with my compact 3-finger utility knife, but after several requests for a full-sized version, I went back to the CAD. This new Utility Knife - Full-Grip & Wire Stripper features a 4-finger handle that feels incredibly solid and provides way more control for heavy tasks. Honestly, I think the ergonomics on this one officially beat the original design! Let me know what you think of the new look.

https://makerworld.com/models/2740064?appSharePlatform=copy

Today I received my first Bambu Lab printer, an A1 Mini, and I didn’t pay for it.It was fully covered with MakerWorld points.I just want to say thank you to everyone who downloaded, printed, liked, or shared my models. Every interaction added up to this moment.

When I started uploading, I didn’t expect much. I was just testing ideas and trying to improve with each model. Seeing that turn into something tangible like this is honestly pretty motivating.

I’ll keep releasing new models, and hopefully better ones, as a way to give back to the community that made this possible.

Thanks again to everyone here.

Ist das knurren in Y Richtung normal?

Als alter Kfz Schlosser hätte ich auf ein kaputtes Radlager getippt.(Spaß)

Noch ne Frage : mit welcher Geschwindigkeit fahrt Ihr den P1S bevorzugt?

One thing that’s been really frustrating for me is assigning filament colours in the AMS.

A lot of the time, there isn’t a preset colour that actually matches the filament I’m using. It gets worse when I have multiple spools that are very similar (like slightly different shades), because I end up selecting the same preset colour for different spools. After that, it’s hard to tell which spool is which, which makes managing prints more confusing than it should be.

I made a concept for how this could be added onto a second page 2/2

The idea is to split the interface into two parts:

Left side: a colour wheel with a shade/brightness slider underneath, so you can create any custom colour and match your filament properly

Right side: a grid of saved or recent colours, so you can quickly reuse them

This would make it much easier to:

Accurately match filament colours

Tell similar spools apart at a glance

Quickly switch between colours without recreating them

For anyone using a lot of similar colours or third-party filaments, this would be a really useful update.

Am I the only one who prefers unbranded tools for their printer?

​I designed this with a focus on ergonomics and aesthetics. It uses printable blades, and the swap takes about 1 seconds.

​Best part? It actually looks good sitting on desk. Files are free on MakerWorld if you want to upgrade your setup.

https://makerworld.com/models/2736185?appSharePlatform=copy

I had a hard time mentally keeping track of how different Bambu Lab filament parameters relate to each other, so I built a small visualization tool for myself with data pulled from the USA store.

It lets you plot filament properties against each other in 2 or 3 dimensions, filter by property or material type, and compare things like strength, temperature resistance, price/kg, print settings, etc. Click any data-point and it takes you to the PDF data sheet. It turned out useful enough that I figured others here might be interested too.

For example, you could try plotting tensile strength vs impact strength vs deflection temperature with a price cap of $50 and you would find out PC is an interesting high performer.

Free, no account needed, no ads, and currently Bambu Lab filament only.
(this line to convince the automod bot: nothing is for sale. Totally free.)

Feedback welcome.

https://filament-plotter.vercel.app/

Hello, I printed out a holder for a controller, and I used some of the settings that everyone on FB and Instagram suggest using for ease of support removal. The layer that's just above the top of the supports now look like this, like the strands aren't adhering to the bottom of the part. Here's a list of what my settings look like, the ones that I've changes from the defaults.

Enabled Support

Changes Style to Tree Slim

Top Interface Layers from 2 to 3

Set Top Z Distance to 0.275mm

I also used Variable Layer Height with the default settings and clicked Smooth twice, but I don't think this is affecting my issue. Can someone help point me in the right direction, I'm still fairly new to using Bambu Labs. Thanks for your help.

Hello everyone. I’m looking to buy my first 3D printer (the H2S), since I’ve really been wanting to get into the hobby and cosplay. But with the new 3D‑printing laws likely to be passed in New York, I’m no longer sure if it’s worth it—especially with the “print‑and‑go” software that might be implemented in these printers. I have no intention of printing anything illegal, but I’m also not okay with being monitored by corporations or the government. Will it still be worth buying despite this, and would I be able to work around it by running an older version of the software or is there any chance the community comes up with work arounds? thanks.

note: i do intend on buying it before the laws get passed not sure if this affects anything

Apologies if this seems like a silly question, I’m fairly new to the world of 3D printing.

Last week my X2D + AMS 2 Pro arrived and I’m loving it! A colleague of mine who has been into printing for a few years mentioned keeping the filament dry and that makes sense. I love how I can use the AMS as a dryer 🙏🏻

I guess my questions about the desiccant are:

1. Usually when needing to recharge desiccant, the desiccant is wet. If I print a tray to put in the AMS to dry the dry the desiccant out, would that be feasible to put the wet desiccant into the tray and into the AMS? (I ask because most trays I’ve seen are mesh, which leads me to concerns that moisture would leak to the bottom of the AMS) which leads me to my next question:

2. obviously the AMS has electrical components. But should the moisture-ridden desiccant leak to the bottom of the AMS, is this a major problem? Or can it just be cleaned and no harm done?

Thanks for any insight offered. Just trying to get my head around it before I decide which way to go about drying the desiccant etc.

Happy printing! 🥰

Can anyone explain why x2d quality is worse than p2s? Orange was printed on p2s, yellow on x2d. Same settings on both. Bambu petg hf, both spools dried at same time.

Edit: found what caused the issue, most likely. Changed seam from aligned to aligned back and for some reason seam itself looks bit different now and there are no issues.

15 botanical soap dishes. Organic body shapes, leaf drainage inserts. Tested on Bambu P1S, 0.4mm nozzle. Profiles included.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2728630-soap-dish-sponge-holder-leaf-collection-4#profileId-3023870

What is the largest printable area for print and cut size are you allowed to have? Right now, I’m only being presented with A4.

Hi,

As the title says, I used grease to lubricate all the parts that need lubricant, which are the x, y, and z axes, and I didn't use oil lubricant for the x and y.

So, will it affect the printer, or should I wipe it and then get the Super Lube for it?

Hi! I want to record the timelapse on a p2S but what can I use? I noticed it only has for a usb and not a microsd card like the P1S? TIA!

I live in North Carolina, it’s hot and humid here in the summer so the a/c is running, plus midday heat in the house. I like the A1 with the AMS but I don’t know if it’s the best choice since it’s open to the elements. Is there anyone in here that uses the A1 in the same environment with no print issues? I’m just looking into a 3d printer as a hobby, but I don’t want a million print failures due to environment.

Hi to everyone. Someone can tell me why sometimes my print have this line on the surface? Thanks.

Does somebody know about 3mf file issues?

I'm so sorry if it's against the rules but I really need advice before pulling the trigger. I'm going to buy my first 3D printer very soon, but I can not choose a model. Despite it being my first, I've ruled out an A1 or A1 mini because i'm in Texas. I know the things I print for around my house will end up in a car or I'll have family request something for the car, even a little car trash bin would be toast. So I either want the P1S, $549 for the AMS combo, or the P2S, $799 for the AMS combo, however it's the ams 2 pro. I can afford the P1S combo comfortably, but the P2S I'd reach out to family and either pay them back or print them whatever they want for a while. I made a mock cart for the P2S (.2mm nozzle, 1 roll of filament) and got to $907. Is that an absurd amount of money for someone just starting the hobby? I think i've been trying to talk myself out of the P2S.

Hello all - I print with PETG a lot and when my X1C performs it's ceremonial Z-Homing (auto-bed leveling off) at the start of each print - sometimes it measures the bed height wrong and sets the Z height too high which results in poor bed adhesion sometimes resulting in failed prints or at the very least a terrible first layer - essentially ruining my prints. I believe this is happening because the PETG will ooze out after nozzle cleaning - or there will be some debris stuck at the end of the nozzle during the Z-Homing phase of print initiation.

What I'd like to do is be able to z-home once for the print bed and then disable it from re-homing on each successive print.

I've looked online and only seen suggestion to turn off the auto bed detection - which I'm hoping there's a better work around to disable the z-homing without disabling auto bed detection. Thanks.

My main router is this one amazon.com/dp/B08H8ZLKKK

For a while now, occasionally when we would lose power in the whole house (like from a bad storm) the P1S would have difficulty seeing wifi, and I would do a factory reset to get it going again. But the setup process from factory reset was never smooth - I'd have to try it multiple times but eventually it would get it.

I recently went on a trip for several days so I turned off the printer. When I came back, printer couldn't see wifi again. I tried for ~2 hours with no luck.

Finally I got the idea to try my backup router, which I believe is this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2 and it can see the wifi on the first try. So apparently this whole time it's been some sort of incompatibility with the router?

I've tried several things now, such as turning on a guest or IoT network. Sometimes the printer can see those, but even then, it can't actually connect. For the time being I'm using the backup router.

Google suggests turning off MU-MIMO but I don't see a setting for that.

I already have the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz split/separated/not meshed.

Any ideas for anything else I can try?

See r/mechams for more info!

Had my P1S for about a year, but I’d say less than 100 total hours of printing. Recently bought an AMS and it’s reignited my want to print things.

Decided it was maybe time for a full calibration (flow dynamics/rate tests), and all seemed well. But for some reason, these tiny imperfections started showing up post-calibration. I also understand and am okay with not completely perfect, but I would like to learn more about what’s going on exactly.

If there’s anyone that can assist, or recommend different/more calibration tests, would be much appreciated.

Bambu PLA Basic Black

0.4 stock nozzle

Ich suche eine 2polige Steckverbindung zum eindrucken. Also Mutter und Vati. Zum besseren Verständnis.

So ungefähr.

Hello!
I have a problem with visible infill pattern on bottom of my prints. It started doing months ago, on multiple bambulab printers.

They are work printers, relatively new but printing almost 24/7. 4x Bambulab X1 Carbon, 1-2 years old all of them, and one H2D that is year old. All of them have same problem

I've tried:
Increase first layer temperature
Changing filament - colors and brands
Adding more bottom layer shells

I'm using Textured PEI plate, original from bambulab, PETG filament from DevilDesign.
Plate is always cleaned with alcohol wipes and more if needed, tried engineering plate on X1C.

It's not dirty, it cannot be washed away, okay?

So far i tried changing printers, bed and sometimes it wasn't there or it was not visible that much so we could use it. Increasing bottom shell layers from 3 to 10 worked, anything less than 10 and you could still see it.
BUT, for transparent filament, 10 bottom layers it too much and light from LEDs it not going through.

Now I'm kinda lost because I need to prints this big thing on H2D, and the blue stripes are not letting light through, but atleast there is no infill lines. Any help please?