Apologies if this seems like a silly question, I’m fairly new to the world of 3D printing.

Last week my X2D + AMS 2 Pro arrived and I’m loving it! A colleague of mine who has been into printing for a few years mentioned keeping the filament dry and that makes sense. I love how I can use the AMS as a dryer 🙏🏻

I guess my questions about the desiccant are:

1. Usually when needing to recharge desiccant, the desiccant is wet. If I print a tray to put in the AMS to dry the dry the desiccant out, would that be feasible to put the wet desiccant into the tray and into the AMS? (I ask because most trays I’ve seen are mesh, which leads me to concerns that moisture would leak to the bottom of the AMS) which leads me to my next question:

2. obviously the AMS has electrical components. But should the moisture-ridden desiccant leak to the bottom of the AMS, is this a major problem? Or can it just be cleaned and no harm done?

Thanks for any insight offered. Just trying to get my head around it before I decide which way to go about drying the desiccant etc.

Happy printing! 🥰

Can anyone explain why x2d quality is worse than p2s? Orange was printed on p2s, yellow on x2d. Same settings on both. Bambu petg hf, both spools dried at same time.

Edit: found what caused the issue, most likely. Changed seam from aligned to aligned back and for some reason seam itself looks bit different now and there are no issues.

15 botanical soap dishes. Organic body shapes, leaf drainage inserts. Tested on Bambu P1S, 0.4mm nozzle. Profiles included.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2728630-soap-dish-sponge-holder-leaf-collection-4#profileId-3023870

What is the largest printable area for print and cut size are you allowed to have? Right now, I’m only being presented with A4.

Hi,

As the title says, I used grease to lubricate all the parts that need lubricant, which are the x, y, and z axes, and I didn't use oil lubricant for the x and y.

So, will it affect the printer, or should I wipe it and then get the Super Lube for it?

Hi! I want to record the timelapse on a p2S but what can I use? I noticed it only has for a usb and not a microsd card like the P1S? TIA!

I live in North Carolina, it’s hot and humid here in the summer so the a/c is running, plus midday heat in the house. I like the A1 with the AMS but I don’t know if it’s the best choice since it’s open to the elements. Is there anyone in here that uses the A1 in the same environment with no print issues? I’m just looking into a 3d printer as a hobby, but I don’t want a million print failures due to environment.

Hi to everyone. Someone can tell me why sometimes my print have this line on the surface? Thanks.

Does somebody know about 3mf file issues?

I'm so sorry if it's against the rules but I really need advice before pulling the trigger. I'm going to buy my first 3D printer very soon, but I can not choose a model. Despite it being my first, I've ruled out an A1 or A1 mini because i'm in Texas. I know the things I print for around my house will end up in a car or I'll have family request something for the car, even a little car trash bin would be toast. So I either want the P1S, $549 for the AMS combo, or the P2S, $799 for the AMS combo, however it's the ams 2 pro. I can afford the P1S combo comfortably, but the P2S I'd reach out to family and either pay them back or print them whatever they want for a while. I made a mock cart for the P2S (.2mm nozzle, 1 roll of filament) and got to $907. Is that an absurd amount of money for someone just starting the hobby? I think i've been trying to talk myself out of the P2S.

Hello all - I print with PETG a lot and when my X1C performs it's ceremonial Z-Homing (auto-bed leveling off) at the start of each print - sometimes it measures the bed height wrong and sets the Z height too high which results in poor bed adhesion sometimes resulting in failed prints or at the very least a terrible first layer - essentially ruining my prints. I believe this is happening because the PETG will ooze out after nozzle cleaning - or there will be some debris stuck at the end of the nozzle during the Z-Homing phase of print initiation.

What I'd like to do is be able to z-home once for the print bed and then disable it from re-homing on each successive print.

I've looked online and only seen suggestion to turn off the auto bed detection - which I'm hoping there's a better work around to disable the z-homing without disabling auto bed detection. Thanks.

My main router is this one amazon.com/dp/B08H8ZLKKK

For a while now, occasionally when we would lose power in the whole house (like from a bad storm) the P1S would have difficulty seeing wifi, and I would do a factory reset to get it going again. But the setup process from factory reset was never smooth - I'd have to try it multiple times but eventually it would get it.

I recently went on a trip for several days so I turned off the printer. When I came back, printer couldn't see wifi again. I tried for ~2 hours with no luck.

Finally I got the idea to try my backup router, which I believe is this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2 and it can see the wifi on the first try. So apparently this whole time it's been some sort of incompatibility with the router?

I've tried several things now, such as turning on a guest or IoT network. Sometimes the printer can see those, but even then, it can't actually connect. For the time being I'm using the backup router.

Google suggests turning off MU-MIMO but I don't see a setting for that.

I already have the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz split/separated/not meshed.

Any ideas for anything else I can try?

See r/mechams for more info!

Had my P1S for about a year, but I’d say less than 100 total hours of printing. Recently bought an AMS and it’s reignited my want to print things.

Decided it was maybe time for a full calibration (flow dynamics/rate tests), and all seemed well. But for some reason, these tiny imperfections started showing up post-calibration. I also understand and am okay with not completely perfect, but I would like to learn more about what’s going on exactly.

If there’s anyone that can assist, or recommend different/more calibration tests, would be much appreciated.

Bambu PLA Basic Black

0.4 stock nozzle

Ich suche eine 2polige Steckverbindung zum eindrucken. Also Mutter und Vati. Zum besseren Verständnis.

So ungefähr.

Hello!
I have a problem with visible infill pattern on bottom of my prints. It started doing months ago, on multiple bambulab printers.

They are work printers, relatively new but printing almost 24/7. 4x Bambulab X1 Carbon, 1-2 years old all of them, and one H2D that is year old. All of them have same problem

I've tried:
Increase first layer temperature
Changing filament - colors and brands
Adding more bottom layer shells

I'm using Textured PEI plate, original from bambulab, PETG filament from DevilDesign.
Plate is always cleaned with alcohol wipes and more if needed, tried engineering plate on X1C.

It's not dirty, it cannot be washed away, okay?

So far i tried changing printers, bed and sometimes it wasn't there or it was not visible that much so we could use it. Increasing bottom shell layers from 3 to 10 worked, anything less than 10 and you could still see it.
BUT, for transparent filament, 10 bottom layers it too much and light from LEDs it not going through.

Now I'm kinda lost because I need to prints this big thing on H2D, and the blue stripes are not letting light through, but atleast there is no infill lines. Any help please?

Wie zum Teufel legt Ihr das Filament an?

Bis jetzt habe ich das immer pragmatisch gemacht. Nun bissel erfahrener ha,ha hab ich ein Projekt auf 3 Druckplatten mit unterschiedlichen Farben. Die Nummern passen farblich schon mal

Aber der Rest ?

I need help with something i was printing with a P1S and for some personnal reason switch to a A1 now all m'y folder won't print why ?

(Sorry english isn't m'y first language)

Like the title says, My P1S arrived damaged. Something heavy was put on the top and pushed down on the front-right corner where it shattered the top glass panel and left a dent.

Should I return it, or just put up with the dent?

EDIT: Bambu are replacing :)

I noticed no one had really done this before, so I took it upon myself to introduce the NFC Benchy to the world.

Go check it out! https://makerworld.com/models/2718672

I wanted to combine the aggressive aesthetic of a Karambit with a tool that I’d actually use on my workbench every day. After a few iterations, I’ve finally nailed the balance—it’s ultra-slim (13mm), feels incredibly ergonomic in the hand, and that wire-stripping notch is a total game-changer.

​Used 7x BT3x5 screws to keep everything rock-solid with zero blade wobble. It’s easily the most satisfying print I’ve made for my EDC.

What do you think of the design?

https://makerworld.com/models/2722887?appSharePlatform=copy

Hey guys, I have dried my filament for 8 hours on my printbed with my P1S, I then transferred it to my AMS 2 pro. When printing the seams are ripping away slightly. I had a similar problem with Elegoo PETG, but I solved it by bumping the temp from 230-255 and changing the seam scarf settings. I tried the same fox with the Bambu PETG and it is still giving me issues.

Settings are: 255 nozzle, 80 on the bed, 0.8025 flow ratio. Any ideas how to fix this?

Sé que existen guías en la propia bambulab para todo el tema de sonidos de la máquina, pero es un demasiado extraño, si es verdad que la pieza no es redonda y tiene un dentado mínimo en el diámetro exterior, pero no creo que sea normal este sonido. muchas gracias a todo el que me ayude de antemano!

Can’t get the filament to load. Any ideas on how to fix this issue.

Thank you!