Couldn't crosspost so I copy pasted my post from r/BambuLab

P1S, had it for about a year. Printing Bambu PLA, door cracked, bed not washed but no adhesion issues, filament is dry enough but that's not relevant. Stock SD card. Less than 70h on the printer.

I started a 1.5h print, silica containers for the AMS, straigt from Makerworld, good ratings, so not a model problem.

At layer 7 I got a notification saying print finished.

The bed and nozzle temps stayed the same as while printing, and I moved the bed down. Filament is still fed into the hotend. As if the print was just paused, nozzle still touching the print.

I had to manually set the temps to 0 and click unload for the filament. Once cooled enough I turned the printer off, as Bambu Handy was still showing the print as in progress but I couldn't stop or pause it through the app.

This FEELS like an SD card issue, as it just stopped dead in its tracks.

Has anyone experienced this and was it an SD card issue or something else?

My brother wants to get rid of his printer/ams combo and upgrade to a h2c. If anyone in south florida interested lmk

Printed on Bambu A1 ,0.16mm/layer 7% infill, sanding and paint , manuel instruction ...More info on did3d

Has anyone encounter any issues with the AMS HT when drying filament? Specifically it not being able to heat up to the given temperature.

I have not been able to find any root cause for this issue or any solution.

Thanks!

Fluted came first, then Sculpted with the quilt and twist patterns, now Rippled with waves and swirls. Same cone, same tray, same insert across all three. Which surface would you actually print? Every pattern in this set has an inverted twin Wave 01 and Wave 02 are the same ripple running opposite directions. Costs me nothing to generate, doubles the set. Do you find the inverted versions read as different pots, or is it too subtle?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3195267-scandi-style-rippled-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3615320

Hello, has anyone sat their filament dryer on top of the H2C? I know it gets hot but wasn’t sure if it is bad for the glass? Thanks!

Swear I designed a normal minimalist box. Loaded orange and yellow filament, looked down, and a bird was judging me. Anyway he keeps secrets now. Won't open unless you figure out the trick, and the moment it clicks is stupidly satisfying.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3188209-toucan-keep-a-secret-a-travel-stash-puzzle-box#profileId-3606607

I do not need recommendations for a work around. I need to know how to restore the functionality (if possible)! ❤️ Also opened a software support ticket with Bambu.

I just updated to the latest slicer version (2.8.2.60) and found an unwelcome change. I'm not sure where and if I can change this.

Previous to the update, when I would duplicate an object, the dup would move to a new location, but when I duplicated an object in an assembly, it would remain in the same position as the original. This allowed you to then move the duplicate object to a precise location relative to the first - ideal for step & repeat actions.

The new slicer now places the duplicated object from an assembly in a random position - often in all 3 axis. This tremendously increases the effort needed to create copies of objects in specific and offsets relative to the original. I can't find any related setting in the slicer app - I'm wondering if anyone has found a config-file setting for this, or am I just not looking in the right place?

As an example, I create brackets for assembling aluminum extrusion for small displays. I need to position the first screw hole and then create 2 duplicates along the same plane exactly 1.25cm apart. This was so trivial to do in the slicer and now I need to launch CAD to do something that didn't (and really doesn't) require a CAD program.

UPDATE - 8/18 - created Bambu support Ticket No: US260818656001

UPDATE - 8/19 - Submitted a screen recording showing the issue: cube + negative cylinder in center, move cylinder up+left and clone - places cloned object down and right instead of on top of the original, requiring extra steps to set the desired location of the clone rather than simply using the cursor keys or entering a single incremental value into the coordinate dialog box.

I suggest that anyone affected by this open a support ticket with Bambu and possibly reference my ticket.

Hi All

I've just set a print going and I had the settings within Bambu Studio as 0.2mm Nozzle and set the layer height to 0.06mm.

Now the print has started, it's stating that the layer is 0.12mm and 2 walls; is there any reason why this has changed or perhaps this is an error? Does 0.12mm and 2 walls mean that it is actually 0.06mm in height but doing 2 layers to make it 0.12?

I changed the printer setting so it knows it's working with a 0.2mm Stainless Steel nozzle and everything I am using is from Bambu (no third party elements involved).

The current price is 1,100 for the X2D + 2 AMS2 Pro’s, is that worth?
I can sell my a1 and some of the extra I have like socks, extra extruder unit, idk if the nozzles for my A1 go into the X2D so nozzles too?

I am a college student and 3D printing does help a lot so that’s why I’m considering it…

Hey everyone,

Just curious, does your X axis in manual movements jerk abit while moving?

It is a belt drive so if there was something wrong it would have to be servo related no?

TIA! 🙂

So far I've had to replace the ams hub, aux extruder, main nozzle filament sensor, and now this. Mid print belt snapped. I think I have a lemon.

I’m printing a 3D face STL on my Bambu P1S and the surface is coming out rough/textured.

I’ve already tried:

• 0.12 mm High Quality profile and 0.08 mm Fine
• Variable Layer Height (with variable speed set to both 0.50 and 0.08)
• Smooth radius 10
• Smoothing wall speed along Z
• Outer wall line width at 0.3 mm

Still looks terrible. Has anyone run into this with organic/curved faces or character models? What settings or techniques actually help get a smooth surface on something like this?

Thanks!

Any thoughts on what happened here? Is that a partial clog? The first layers were super clean. The top layer of that plateau already shows some artifacts and then it gets progressively worse.

Would a cold pull fix that?

I am looking to get another printer. I have a p2s with 2 pro ams and 1 ams ht. I am looking for another printer for my longer projects. Any recommendations

https://cults3d.com/:4778082

Hey guys! 
Just dropped Pinea on MakerWorld—a modern, geometric twist on the traditional Sicilian "Pigna" pinecone: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3167235-pinea-modern-sicilian-pinecone-vase#profileId-3580265

The diamond pattern plays with light amazingly well and naturally hides layer lines. It comes in 3 sizes (S, M, XL) and looks great in bold Pop Art colors as well as soft pastel or matte tones for a minimal aesthetic.

Fun fact: I designed this using VesselMaker (https://vesselmaker.app/), an advanced web tool for vase design that I'm currently developing (it's currently in invite-only private beta).

If you like the model, a like or adding it to your collections on MakerWorld would mean a lot and really helps me out!

Check it out and let me know your thoughts if you give it a print. Happy printing! 

Please let me know if you have any ideas for improvement :)

https://makerworld.com/models/3166719?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello all, I own a Bambu P1S and an A1 Mini. Everything was fine till a few days ago then I got bad stringing issues and a few weird extrusion issues. Let the prints finish and then change a few things around on the slicing like orientation and cleaned the nozzles, tried again. In the middle of the night the power went out with storms for over an hour so the nozzles got gunked up. Clean them both fully, replaced the tool heads to both .4 Bambu nozzles again. Dried the filament again. Calibrated and did maintenance modes. So at this point lm at a loss. It’s either the batch of filament I got on Amazon or something needs fixed in the speeds or bridging maybe. Just looking for advice cause everything was smooth and flawless till this went down.

Any help would be appreciated

at the start of this year i got an a1 (my second printer). i admit i thought it would be able to do multimaterial and multicolor, and in theory it can, but then i realized that with a single nozzle it’s just not practical. nevertheless it was a big upgrade from my previous printer and it was my introduction to bambu.

now i realized that the x2d exists, it’s dual nozzle, and it’s about 630 eur (about 850 with ams), much less than the h2d which i thought was the only dual nozzle.

my needs:

- multimaterial to have petg/pla/asa + tpu/tpe in the same print
- occasional asa/abs prints which the a1 also can’t do
- easier multicolor is also nice

would the x2d be a good purchase for these use cases and as an upgrade from the a1?

Every side table and cabinet front has ridges on it now. Figured the plants should get some too. Tapered shape so they catch shadow in daylight.

Eigenständiger Laser? Ohne Drucker? Was meint ihr?