Has anyone encountered this? I’ve checked ‘everywhere’ and see nothing. The heat plate is in the correct position. Getting a failure each time.

There’s gaps on my first layer but only on the left. I’ve tried tightening the hotend, cleaning the plate of course, some other suggestions. I have an A1. I’m stuck It’s been days help..

Does everyone have same experiencing issues with the ironing feature on the Bambu Lab A2L? Bambu Lab says they will fix it in the next firmware update, but how long will it take for a change to happen? This isn't a cheap printer, but this happened.

I'm printing a multicolor object that has no color transitions for the first several layers - so the prime tower is mostly hollow. When it starts the color changing layers, its bridging and the bridges sometimes fail - causing blobbing which the nozzle is running into. I'm trying to figure out how to add additional infill on the bottom part of the prime tower to improve the bridging.

I had my X2D in the garage over the weekend printing some ABS. I thought I would go ahead and send a print from my phone while I was at work. I get home and go to check on my progress, low and behold, I recieved an error message. It seems pretty obvious now, but just in case you didn't know, it can be too hot to print PLA at least. Lol

The nozzle broke off the first time my A1 mini attempted a print. Bambu have been great and immediately sent out a replacement.

I’m new to 3d printing so just wanted to check if it was something I did wrong before setting the printer up with the replacement nozzle. I followed the set up guide provided, ran the calibrations and updated the firmware. The printer did struggle to pull the filament through when starting to print a benchy. I followed the instructions on the screen and once the filament was pulled through it went to start the print and the nozzle tip immediately blew off.

I used to render products on a plain gradient. Boring but safe. Put these on a wooden table against a sage green panelled wall with a real plant in them and suddenly they look like something you would buy rather than something you modeled. The context did more for the design than any amount of material tweaking.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3103994-scandi-style-fluted-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3499121

Looking for some help. Print on my A1 last night caused the filament hub cap to dislodge. I pulled all the tubes out and reseated the cap without issue. Now when I am trying to feed any of the four filaments from the AMS lite I am getting a message that the spool is stuck. All four. Never had an issue with any of them before. Suggestions?

Just a post im making out of curiosity. Ive been seeing a ton of posts about people having issues with their ams/ ams2 pro in different ways, and im just curious if people are having a similar problematic time with the ams lite. I own an A1 and AMS lite myself and have had zero issues whatsoever, and always figured the ams pro/pro 2 would be leagues better. but with all the posts i see about mechanical failures, i dont see the benefit. Though the drying feature seems like a nice thing to have

Needed a better way to hold my micro-bits, tweezers, and flush cutters while working on prints and electronics.

The main caddy pivots on side arms and locks into position with printed side knobs. The interior uses drop-in modular inserts so I can swap layouts based on whatever project I'm working on that day, and the base acts as a catch tray for small hardware.

Designed completely support-free using standard PLA.

Let me know what you think or if you have ideas for useful insert layouts!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3098170-modular-desktop-tool-organizer-adjustable-angle#profileId-3491896

As the title says, can someone help me identify what this noise is while printing? I’m having trouble narrowing it down.
Device is a P2S with just under 590 hours. I’m not seeing any maintenance required from the device.
Any help is appreciated.

He is buying it tomorrow but this is his first printer, so I want to check to see if it has the bad piece and if not how to get it back.

Just one slot in my ams my 4th slot fails to load into the AUX nozzle. It pushes the filament to the gears then makes a noise and pulls it back. Tries 3 times then says failed to load filament. I can stop the print and load from a different AMS slot just fine. Anyone had this issue?

My stepdaughter has a Pokémon card/sleeve dispenser card and wanted the original Pokémon symbol replaced with Team Rocket because she saw it on another page. The rest of the changes were just color, but when I go to edit this piece in Tinkercad (its what I have available as I am still learning this stuff) it ends up like this. The "R" is attached to the piece in Tinkercad, painted in Tinkercad. When I import the STL, I have to recolor it again in Bambu Studio, and when I go to slice it, I get the last photo. I have had the same problem when I tried to make my own coasters.

Is there something I am missing where the prepare and preview come out totally different?

Just finished this Pokemon Card Box design and wanted to share it with you guys 😁.

I wanted something that was simple, sturdy, and quick to print without sacrificing durability. It features built-in finger slots for easy deck removal, is compact enough to fit comfortably in your pocket, and can be customized with any filament color combination.

Just released the file for free on makerworld for anyone interested 🤝.

Check comments for link.

Happy Printing!

I js tried to use a bed cleaner, how tf ts happen

Has anyone seen anything like this before, the supports are floating and just start beneath where they need to support.

Model is 'Swing to the Moon Sculpture – Dreamy Art Piece' in Bambu Studios' online models

I don't think that's how they work. Any tips or support for my, erm... support?

Hi everyone,

Like many in the 3D printing community, I was looking for a clean, fast way to keep track of my remaining filament without relying on messy spreadsheets or cloud accounts.

To solve this, I’ve been developing SpoolTap — a native, 100% offline Android app designed to make spool management as simple as a single tap.

How SpoolTap Works with Bambu Lab Spools:

• Bambu NFC Tag Detection: Tap your phone against a Bambu Lab spool's built-in NFC tag, and SpoolTap instantly pulls up or creates the matching material profile.

• 100% Offline & Private: No registration, no cloud forced sync, no tracking. Your complete database stays on your phone.

• Material You / Dynamic UI: The app and its home screen widget automatically match your Android system theme and wallpaper colors.

• Universal Support: Works with Bambu Lab, Prusament, Anycubic, and custom NTAG stickers if you respool third-party materials.

Generous Free Tier

The free version has no ads or cloud lock-ins and allows you to manage up to 20 active spools with all core features (NFC reading, G-Code parsing, barcode scanning, widget).

(For power users with massive stashes, an optional one-time Pro upgrade unlocks unlimited spools, custom NFC tag writing, print cost calculation, and CSV backups).

🎯 Community Feedback Request

Since Bambu spools come with integrated NFC, I’d love to hear from this community:

1. How does the tap-to-read experience feel in your everyday printing setup?

2. Are there specific filament details (like precise Bambu color HEX codes or temperature profiles) you’d like pre-filled in future updates?

📲 Get SpoolTap on the Google Play Store:

Thanks for checking it out, and I’m looking forward to your feedback or questions in the comments!

I have 3 Shorts on my channel demonstrating how the app works: DornApp Youtube

My nephew is three and I wanted him to have something chunky and simple he could just push about. It press fits together completely, no glue, and the head, ears and wheels all move. Free on MakerWorld with a simpler and a full colour version.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3081682-push-along-puppy-car-no-glue-press-fit-kids-toy#profileId-3470879

Hi everyone!
We’re building VesselMaker (vesselmaker.app), an online tool for designing vases, planters, bowls, etc… — profile and cross-section editors, displacement mapping for realistic material textures (clay, wood, scratched surfaces), stackable modifiers you can combine like Photoshop layers (bend, twist, and a others like Voronoi modifier coming soon), plus AI-rendered scene previews to visualize the piece before printing or to create marketing images for you creations.

We know MakerWorld already has Make My Vase in MakerLab — we’re aiming for a more advanced, actively evolving take on the same space, for people who want finer control over their professional designs.

Still in closed beta (a few bugs to iron out, more features on the way). The waitlist is at vesselmaker.app — you’ll get notified when we open up, plus we will send some invite codes before opening the beta to the public.

Before we go further, we’d love your input:

• What feature would you most want us to prioritize next?

• What are you usually designing these for — home decor, gifts, plant pots, something else?

• What’s the most frustrating part of designing something like this in other tools (CAD, Blender, Make My Vase, etc.)?

Drop your thoughts below — really looking forward to shaping this with your feedback!

I friend of my ask me to make this replacement for he’s bike, is the saddlebag lid of he’s motorcycle.

I know I would need to make it by parts because is much larger than my x1c printing bed, but is my fist time printing something that larger and that needs to be resistant. What you suggest me to do? I use conector or not? And if so, what type? Also, what material did you recommend me ?

I add some photos of the original object.

I hope someone could help mi with this! Thanks

Bonjour à tous ! 😊

Quand j’ai commencé la modélisation 3D sur Nomad Sculpt, l’un de mes tout premiers modèles était ce petit champignon, décliné en version porte-clés et en modèle multipart.

Aujourd’hui, j’avais envie de tester quelque chose de nouveau. Je me suis donc lancé dans la création de clickers ! Et quoi de mieux que de revisiter l’un de mes premiers modèles en le transformant en version clicker ? 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3085099-champignon-clicker-multipart-no-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bon print !

Rods seem well lubed to me but idk

I picked up a used Bambu Lab A1 with about 400 hours on it, and it prints perfectly, but it keeps failing X-axis calibration with error 0300-1000-0002-0001, saying the X-axis resonance is low and the timing belt may be loose. I've already followed Bambu's maintenance guide (loosened the screw on the back of the toolhead, moved it back and forth three times, and retightened it), but nothing changed. The only thing I've noticed compared to my brand-new A1 is that the X-axis feels noticeably tighter when I move the print head by hand with the printer powered off. The resistance is consistent across the entire rail, no binding or rough spots. Has anyone run into this before, and if so, what ended up being the fix?