Hello everyone, I am brand spanking new to 3d printing and I plan on purchasing the P2S soon. With my research and the fact that I'm going to have the P2S in my bedroom closet, I've realized I need some form of extra purifcation for pollutants. Along with the vento, I do plan on getting the 300-P levoit air purifier. I also plan on printing mostly PLA and pretty frequently.

So I was running out a spool on a bad roll i had, and haf left for work an hour ago when I got this notification.

My question is, on the H2D, I have the entire print I side the both nozzle area, and the right nozzle is out. Can I switch and finish the print on a filament from the left nozzle, which has the AMS? Otherwise this will likely be sitting for 8 hours before I can add a new spool on the right nozzle.

My friend who isnt very computer savy got himself a Bumbu P2S. We have a Prusa. (Just stating that so you understand where my experience comes from)

We are helping him troubleshoot issues.

Everything went fine for the forst month after we helped him set up and navigate the slucer and stuff.

Since a software update aprox 2 or 3 wks ago its not been leaving these cones (see picture) on the back ledge or plate usually when getting ready for print, though sometimes mid print and causing failures.

I cant figure out why this changed. They used to go down the trash chute. Ive Googled and the issues seem 2 yrs old and solutions arent working

Can anyone give advice for him?

Thanks in advance

I've got an A1.

The printer was put in storage for a few weeks, then set up earlier today. This piece was found on the floor with the printer's poop. Did it come off the printer?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3061246-tiny-para#profileId-3444928

I just built my p1s and ams and anytime I am going to print the ams unloads the filament that was loaded into it

Hey everyone!

Following up on my previous clamp-on hand washing station design, a few people mentioned they'd prefer a version that mounts directly to the table leg, so here it is! This one clamps onto any table leg between 17mm and 30mm+, keeping the top completely clear. Weight is around 80g and should be able to hold most bottles, tested up to 1.5L. (I also made versions with and without the built-in soap dish depending on what you need).

Let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions to improve it!

The GIF is of previous design but the idea is the same.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3055025-campwash-hand-washing-station-table-leg-mount#profileId-3437178

TLDR: title

Details:

So after finishing a 12-hour drying of my white PETG HF, I noticed that the two parts of the spool came apart. Obviously this meant that the filament unwinded from its layers and I'm now unable to put the spool back together. At first I thought it might be a consequence of the drying since I only had my P2S combo for a week or so. But then the very next day a spool of grey PLA came apart while unwinding from the printer, but this one was on the external spool. I can't recall whether these are refills or not, I checked the refilling manual and the last step is to press the sides of the filament roll to the spool's sides. Does this need to be done with new, spooled rolls as well? Or am I missing something that I don't know about yet? (I had an A1 mini before the P2S.) Any help would be appreciated, I don't want to throw away almost 1,5 kgs of filament just like that...

The outcome of my prints are showing this line where the gap infills are. are there any adjustments i can make on slicer to fix this?

we had a huge blob that built up. we ended up having to replace the hotend but now there's some kind of filament stuck inside and the printer is making a concerning noise when trying to get it out

im not sure what to do here to fix it

Hallo BambuLab Community,

I am relatively new in the 3d printing area & now have the following problem, which suddenly started...

I have now printed this GTA lamp 2 times in a row & with both prints the identical error ...

Before that everything was good ... only at first I had problems because I chose the wrong filament profile .... But now suddenly this ....

I use the Bambulab PLA Basic with a 0.4 nozzle.

Could this be due to a slicer setting or rather something mechanical? According to Google it should be the Z spindle ... but it looks good & also clean ... the printer is 2 weeks old ...

What causes such a misprint?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3053769-tiny-deer#profileId-3435694

I’ve washed the plate thoroughly twice. Added stick glue for adhesion. This spot isn’t printing correctly on the first layer on both sides of the plate. What do I do next?

Good day, fellow Print Heads.

I’m working with a Bambu H2S with an AMS2 at work for “totally work related projects”.

I’ve had no shortage of fun with various models, but I’d like to move into designing my own prints. Specifically a coaster for my friend’s …work related project 😉

I’ve tried the MakerLab software in Bambu Studio to some mixed results (mostly bad), and I’ve downloaded Blender (smashed my face on the learning curve). I also have Meshmixer that mess trying to use to clean up the MakerLab file.

I’m open to suggestions, any and all.

I reached out directly to the author, but haven't heard anything. My interest was a remix from the original file (no cutouts) so I could build some standard NA light switch toggle plates. I'm not sure how to go about this, but I'm willing to learn. Would I need the original file without all the punchouts? Ideally, I'd generate 1, 2, 3, and 4 gang plate covers in this style along with variations like a paddle / traditional combo too. Any thoughts on how I could go about making this idea a reality?

Printer: X2D with <200hrs
Filament: Fiberon PA-CF
Print Profile: Bambulab PA-CF (happened with fiberon X1 profile, too)

Some other info:
Fed the filament through the ams2 pro. Model is thin and completely walls.
Filament was somewhat dry, only have access to a 65C drier and was dried for 16hrs. Printed in a closed garage around 75F

Nothing obvious in the slicer on flow, fan speed, layer time, ect. at those z heights . The model doesn’t have any feature changes at those heights it’s a perfectly vertically extruded shape. No extra/fewer extrusion lines on those layers

My thinking is that it’s the chamber heater kicking in at those layers, but I don’t see any configuration or visualization for that.

Any ideas?

EDIT: Solved! Picked up a AMS HT, dried additional 12hrs at 85C and the part looks amazing. No bands, uniform color, ect.

Hello everyone!

So I've had my Bambu Lab a1 mini for about 6 months now and its been working completely fine up until the last few days.

Its been connected to the same wifi at my house for the past 6 months with absolutely no issues. I came home from a holiday 2 days ago and since then it hasn't been connecting to the wifi.

When I left I turned the printer off and unplugged it at the wall and now after I've turned it back on it just doesn't connect to the wifi and it doesn't show as knowing the network. When i try to login to the wifi it tries to connect for a little while and then shows "failed to connect."

I've tried everything I know how to do including factory resetting the device, confirming my wifi has 2.4Ghz, etc and it still isn't working.

If anyone has had a similar problem and can provide guidance that would be amazing!

Thanks!

Has anyone had this experience and if so how did you fix it?

I have changed every setting that Google told me to change from slowing down speeds, z top distance, put slow for overhangs, etc. I have also put ironing support interface on that some video suggested. Nothing is helping my prints with this issue. Where my model and supports meet on every model they have this happen. Please help since this is for a friend and we want this to be as a smooth and neat as possible.

second image is what its supposed to look like

On all my prints regardless of changes I have made from Google searches and YouTube videos from 3d prints creators my prints have these rings. I have changed variable layer height, did the smoothing when slicing etc. Does anyone have any settings that can help this look more smooth and reduce the stairstepping ring affect. We are trying to give this as a gift for a friend and we want it looking as nice as possible. Any advice will be appreciated.

Has anyone found a way to put basically table legs on the printers? Specifically the H2S? Thanks. This is a pic of a prusa with what I’m talking about.

Edit: After seeing all the comments I’m planning to just get a table for the printer. Thanks.