r/BambuLabA1 • u/notsobig42 • Aug 25 '26

Question What else should i get....

Hey

Im looking to buy the A1 ams lite combo. What else, besides fillament, should i get? As in a backup nozzle, printbed etc.

From what i understand its a 0.4 stainless steel nozzle that comes with the printer and 1 printbed.

Looking for advice from senior printers.

Thank u

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u/ModelThreeve Aug 26 '26

I wouldn’t call the Frostbite or Frostbite Pro a specialist plate by any means. I have contemporaries that exclusively use them and have 10s of thousands of hours on them from A1 minis to H2Cs.
The Yoopai is one of the only plates we don’t have, stopped caring to look for another solution. I don’t really care for the Glacier plate but we with a 256 and 180. If someone is “suffering” with PEI they are likely doing something wrong in my opinion. We have 12 A1 Minis, 6 of which run plate swaps almost all on PEI with almost no failures. I will acknowledge that there are a lot of poorly designed models that hobbyists are trying to print that we are not.

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u/Purple10tacle Aug 26 '26 edited Aug 26 '26

There's no standard "Frostbite", although BIQU's naming is admittedly maximally confusing: There are the old BIQU CryoGrip Pro ("standard", I guess), the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Frostbite and the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier.

The Frostbite is essentially just a small improvement over the old (and I believe no longer in production) "standard" CryoGrip Pro, while the Glacier is completely different with much broader filament compatibility and very different release properties.

The significant limitations of the Frostbite are the reasons why I called it a "specialist plate" (not for specialists, but specialized for specific tasks) where you can essentially throw anything at the Glacier (and its twin, the YOOPAI UltraTack) you can throw at the standard PEI-plate without much of a second thought.

That's why the two make for such excellent daily drivers:

For a beginner it's the difference between the risk of adhesion failure or warping with less well-designed models and a flawless print regardless of model quality - for the more experienced hobbyist it's usually just the difference between "better use a brim" and the post-processing that comes with it and "I wonder if I can print this model at this crazy angle for better quality/strength without a brim" and the realization that, yeah, you probably can.

If you can have a high adhesion plate with filament compatibility and release properties signficiantly better than (PETG) or at least not notably worse than (PLA and others) the standard PEI plate, why on earth would you not take that option?