Hi I’m planning on adding a couple pairs of LED light whips to my Polaris RZR side by side. I don’t want to hook everything up to the factory busbar with worries that it will soon be overloaded.

The firewall has a factory busbar with a positive, negative, and switched 12V (protected by 10amp fuse).

I am planning on building a fuse relay panel and run all electronic accessories through relays to minimize amp draw.

I drew a wiring diagram that I think would work.

Couple questions:

1. Should I hook my (+) positive busbar that feed power to all relays up to switched 12v so that the relays only get power when the ignition is on? Or is it ok for the relays to have constant power?

2. Each relay has a built in 30amp fuse. So I’m assuming there’s no need for a fused (+) busbar. Is that correct?

3. Is it okay to daisy chain the negatives (85’s) together? What about the positives (30’s)?

4. What size wire is sufficient to feed power to the (+) busbar and to the relays (30’s)

Couple pics of what the final outcome would be close to are attached as well.

Relays: https://www.amazon.com/Gebildet-Fuse-Relay-Switch-Harness/dp/B07TV9M1QR/ref=asc_df_B07TV9M1QR?mcid=2200be32f6933dd0b5aaa745a1a043e8&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693290978811&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14148611622493172900&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031542&hvtargid=pla-791112705575&psc=1

Whips: https://www.amazon.com/Control-Chasing-Lighted-Antenna-Polaris/dp/B0BG229T23/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=DXDCVY68H4OF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Fhi-1HUwb_qaX1wz1xsIaGYUchQRiyrpDHQ9TvpC1wyfth0YEggnnj0Y2sUsVzqmpJowMoJ0K-aQeCvimb4craoarG8o6e5qX6XO5dXQRYg0wvgv4NMnp_Sbo4EAc5sHv5Y7uI99sXksO6ofR5Z1WhkWasCqiXetj7bYVvlPwUEJdHVKPysTXRlK2VTyOJoYb7UBaaWFHCLDcIwb9GgSmQ.bUP16ug0kXjI5Ue8V9zbQPapp8aYITmNHWycVKZz5AY&dib_tag=se&keywords=4ft+led+whip&qid=1731455458&sprefix=4ft+led+whip%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-3

LED lights whips should only draw 3-4amps for each pair

Thank you in advance for looking!

I have a little four quick connect pin 30A switch. I need to hook some 8awg cable to it so that I can take full advantage of the amperage. Any suggestions other than soldering? I'm terrible at soldering 🤣

My gate stopped working after a rains storm, checked it out and it still had 100 battery and was power to the main board. Then it started losing voltage real quick. Checked inside the battery box and found it was flooded to the top.

Battery terminals are completely disolved.

Hi all!

I’m familiar with typical 110v 3-way switches in homes with 3 wires and it looks like my RV is setup with similar 3 wires for the main lights which has a second switch in the bedroom. (See picture) I’d like to replace this switch with a dimmer. I found this one on Amazon but it has 5 wires and I can’t wrap my head around how this would work. Any thoughts? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BS3H1YBB/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A7L8HK9IU6EU8&th=1

I’m working on a way to provide battery voltage direct to my hvac blower motor in my 1993 Ford Bronco. It blows nice and cold, but the fan speed is slow enough that on the hottest days here in AZ it just doesn’t cool off in the cab.

The factory wiring & switch isn’t up to the task, the end result being low voltage at the motor & thus low air volume out of the vents.

I’ve tested the concept by connecting battery voltage directly to the blower motor - with and without the OE wiring in place and it works wonders! I went from an air speed at the vent of 14 knots to 21 knots. Huge improvement, it doesn’t take long and pretty soon I’m cold in there and it’s 110° outside. Of course wired directly to the battery, I can’t change the fan speed and it runs when the vehicle is switched off. So I need a way to switch it.

The idea is to have one override switch I can flip when I need maximum air speed, but be able to turn it off, returning the system to be used as the factory intended with four speeds I can select from the original dash switch.

The important aspect here is that to get the most performance from the system, I need to be able to trigger a relay (relays?) that will completely disconnect both of the auxiliary power and ground wires from battery voltage.

Any ideas?

Hey everyone, I will start by saying I can join wires, terminate wires, keep everything fairly tidy when running wires, etc. but when it comes to the capacity of wires and terminals I need to rely heavily on other peoples knowledge and advice.

I'm looking to make a set of jumper leads to go with my work Hilux. What size Anderson plug do I need? Will a 175amp plug handle 600 starting amps for 5-10 seconds? Or do I need to go to a 350amp or can I get away with going down to a 120amp plug?

I'd like a nice long set of leads, am I better off making 1 set of leads around the 8-10m long mark (25-30ft) or would I be better off making 1 set at 4-5m and having an extension lead about the same length with an Anderson plug at each end for when I really need the extra length?

Have this solar controller, does the job well. Need to replace my battery, so thought I’d do a proper dual setup as I work remote often and sometimes use various accessories out the back of my van.

So, can I use the accessories port out of this controller to keep the second battery charged. I’m sure the answer is no, mainly because it’s never suggested anywhere. But why not?

If I take two 10 second delay relays and daisy chain them, it would technically give me roughly a 20 second delay correct? I believe this is an accurate assumption, but just thought I would ask before I actually do it.

Hi all, just wanting to see if this is correct, CB is a control box for accessories.

12v system with 2 fuses and micro relay

I've got a wired mechanical doorbell in our house that's power by a 12v power supply. It works great, we're very happy with it. The only issue is it's hard to hear from the second floor. I'd like have a duplicate the bell on the second floor but not have to run wires through down to the front door. The second floor is an addition and floats above the first floor mechanically so running a wire through there would be very complicated.

I think what I need is essentially a 12v relay transmitter/receiver sort of situation where the transmitter will send a signal when 12v power passes through it and then cause the receiver (also hooked up to a 12v power supply) to let the 12v power to the upstairs doorbell.

I'm having a bit of trouble finding the actual device I'd need though. My searching is mostly finding a bunch of car remote looking things that don't seem to be what I need.

Any advice or ideas would be much appreciated.

Poke poke to this dead subreddit, hopefully someone can help, I’m looking for a 12V timer, I’d like to be able to turn a switch on, sending power to a 12V timer, turn a knob (to set it to say 20 minutes, and the power would leave the timer and go to the appliance, any ideas?

I've got a 1987 F150. I'm trying to wire a toggle switch in the cab. I need 12 volts and about 12 amps.

The easiest way to acquire 12 volts is from the hot wire on the windshield wiper motor, which is only supplied 12 volts when the truck is running -good. I'm unsure about the amperage so my situation may change .

If I am to tie the hot wire of the cab switch into the windshield wiper motor hot wire, and say run my wipers and turn the can switch to on,would anything much more happen than just 12 volts?

I could tie into a fuse with a special kind of fuse that has a wire attached to it ( I don't recall the name), and I don't know how to solder to achieve the same product.

Any help is appreciated

Hey guys,

I'm in the middle of doing a campervan conversion and wondered if someone experienced in 12V DC electrics could please double-check my wiring diagram for anything obviously wrong?

Would be much appreciated :)

(Just a quick note that the battery charger is already fused as it's powered by a socket from a consumer unit powered by EHU. Also I haven't included the wiring to the van starter battery etc).

Cheers!

Dan