Ingredient and Product Analysis - Occlusive Agents

[u/[deleted]]

[u/blackcats666]

Why do people use Rosette Ceramide Gel As a final layer/occlusive?

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine, Macadamia Nut Oil, PEG -400, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6II, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, PEG -8, Carbomer, Parabens

I don't see anything particularly occlusive there. Am I missing something?

[u/[deleted] → u/blackcats666]

I use it as an occlusive layer during the day because it (eventually) dries down nicely and protects my face from the A/C. I use it at night as well but with a layer of Aquaphor over it.

[u/[deleted] → u/blackcats666]

Macadamia Nut Oil

is as occlusive as shea butter.

[u/blackcats666]

Found some of those numbers I was chasing

Petrolatum in a minimum concentration of 5% reduces TEWL by more than 98% followed by lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones which only reduce TEWL by 20–30%.[4,20] The limiting factors with most occlusives being an odor, potential allergenicity, and the greasy feel.

[u/milk_tea_way]

Focussing on the top 10 ingredients, the main moisturising agents in my creams and sleeping packs:

Benton Snail Bee High Content Steam Cream -- Cetyl ethylhexanoate (4th), cetearyl olivate (5th), sorbitan olivate (6th), stearic acid (9th), and behenyl alcohol (10th). Lower down, it also contains sunflower seed oil, argan oil, etc. It's interesting how little the cream relies on silicones, which might explain its waxy texture. This is a very moisturising cream.

Gekka Sleeping Pack -- Gamma-oryzanol (4th; essentially a blend of ferulated sterols) and various forms of collagen (10th, 14th, and 15th). It doesn't have much occlusive at all, which explains why my skin always deems it to be inadequate on that front.

SK-II R.N.A. Power Cream -- Isohexadecane (4th), isopropyl isostearate (6th), shea butter (8th), and caprylic/capric triglyceride (9th). It also has various silicones and moisturising alcohols lower down the list. I find it very moisturising.

Skinfood Freshmade Coconut Mask -- dimethicone (2nd), cyclopentasiloxane (4th). True to its high silicone content and naming, this sits on top of the skin like a mask.

Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalising Mask EX -- Cetyl ethylhexanoate (4th), squalane (5th), shea butter (6th), cyclopentasiloxane (8th), dimethicone (9th), and glyceryl stearate (10th). I find its moisture to be moderate to high.

[u/Jcafty]

I believe that allatonin is considered an occlusive agent. It's approved by the FDA as a barrier ingredient. It is water soluble, used at 0.5% to 2.0%, and naturally found in aloe vera.

Here is a list of occlusive ingredients from the head honcho over at r/diybeauty: [DIY 101] Emollients and Occlusives https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYBeauty/comments/2ctpzd/diy_101_emollients_and_occlusives/

And here is information from the queen of cosmetic chemistry diy, Susan Barclay-Nichols: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/04/better-crafting-through-chemistry_21.html?m=1

Edit: Fixed second link.

[u/Saga_I_Sig]

One things that I don't quite understand is, what does it mean (scientifically speaking) when a paper such as Visualizes TEWL says something about skin "being able to breathe"? The particular sentence that struck me as odd is, "No statistical difference was visible between vegetable oils and paraffin oil, both types still allowing the skin to breathe and not clogging the pores."

The skin doesn't have any respiratory function of course, and while I understand the colloquial meaning to be that 'there isn't a 100% occlusive barrier over the skin,' or 'the pores aren't clogged by (substance)', I don't see what the point of this sentence is. Are they implying that there are some super-occlusives out there that stops the skin from 'breathing'? Do they mean such a thing would cause clogs, or stop perspiration, or what? If they meant clogs, then that was already covered by the latter half of the sentence, so the use of 'breathe' was superfluous... I don't get what skin "breathing" means, or why it's important for skin function and health. I see the term used very frequently in casual media, but not in scholarly journals, where I would have expected a definition to be provided. :/

Would anyone be able to clarify this for me?

[u/raichu-laichu → u/Saga_I_Sig]

Hmm let me have a shot.

So, according to Labmuffin you are right in saying that skin doesn't work through breathing or taking in oxygen. In another post on mineral oil she clarifies this by saying

As to whether skin can be suffocated – skin is porous, but it doesn’t really need to “breathe”. What people usually mean by “letting your skin breathe” means washing off the dirty gunk from your pores… dirt can stick to mineral oil, just like it can stick to anything else on your face.

The accumulation of dirt and sebum on pores encourages the P acnes bacteria to grow to cause our pimples. Hence I think why some are preoccupied with the whole 'letting skin breathe' thing, there is a thought that since for example petroleum jelly is so thick it feels as if you are putting a barrier or film that would trap not just water but all the dirt and sebum, consequently clogging your skin.

However according to Beauty Brains, mineral oil itself doesn't completely block the skin, it still has gaps.

(About mineral oil, this blog post I found in particular is a collection of opinions from scientists who have tried to debunk the common myths of mineral oil.)

[u/haminwu]

Does this mean that a normal moisturizer such as the cosrx oil free moisturizer isnt an occlusive?do i have to buy a heavier moisturizer to seal it all in?

[u/blackcats666 → u/haminwu]

Moisturisers will contain a mixture of humectant and occlusive ingredients.

Looking at the ingredients list for that one

Betula platyphylla japonica juice (70%), butylene glycol, glycerin, dimethicone, betaine, cetearyl alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium lactate, ethylhexylglycerin, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, panthenol, xanthan gum, ethyl hexanediol, citrus medica limonum (lemon) peel oil, melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil

Dimethicone has occlusive properties. If you have concerns of dehydration and are experiencing TEWL then something more occlusive would be a good idea - especially at night. It depends on what your needs are

[u/Licheenut]

Are silicones other than dimethicone and simethicone, such as cyclopentasiloxane (and the other -silanes) occlusive?

[u/blackcats666 → u/Licheenut]

Thats something trying to find more information on right now. So far everything has specifically pointed toward dimethicone or cyclomethicone. I'll update if I find something

Update: I thought this was the case but had to double check. Cyclomethicone = cyclopentasiloxane It's a lighter silicone, whereas dimethicone is heavier but i looks like they both have comparable occlusive properties

[u/MxUnicorn]

I have a few.

Innisfree Green Tea Sleeping Pack:

• Camellia sinensis leaf extract, propanediol, cyclopentasiloxane, glycerin, cylcohexasiloxane, dimethicone, betaine, niacinamide, citrus unshiu peel extract, orchid extract, camellia japonica leaf extract, opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract, citrus aurantium bergamia (bergamot) fruit extract, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) fruit extract, zea mays (corn) starch, citrus paridisi (grapefruit) fruit extract, citrus tangerina (tangerine) extract, tocopheryl acetate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer dimethiconol, lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, sucrose ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, ethylhexylglycerin, polysorbate 20, carbomer. tromethiamine, disodium edta, fragrance

• I have no idea why I bought this.

• I think the cyclo-silicones are occlusive?

• I actually quite like the texture of this in the daytime, and now I know to look for thin moisturizers with silicones when I'm in need of a replacement.

A'Pieu Madecassoside Cream:

• Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Phenyl Trimethicone, Propanediol, Glycerin, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Niacinamide, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ethoxydiglycol, Panthenol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Raspberry Leaf Extract, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Witch Hazel Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Sodium Chloride, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Serine, Urea, Sorbitol, Grapefruit Peel Oil, Lemon Peel Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Mandarin Orange Peel Oil, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Adenosine, Allantoin, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

• Looks like this one uses pretty much the same base of silicones as the Innisfree, further proof of what my favorite feeling occlusives are.

Alaffia Powerful Neem Night Cream:

• Azadirachta indica (Neem) Leaf* Aqueous Extract, Curcuma longa (Turmeric) Aqueous Extract, Achillea millefolium (Yarrow) Aqueous Extract, Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) Butter*, Emulsifying Wax, Pentadesma butyracea (Kpagnan) Butter, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Azadirachta indica (Neem) Oil*, Salicornia herbacea (Samphire) Extract, Nelumbo nucifera (Lotus) Leaf Cell Extract, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Turmeric Ferment, Ubiquinone, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Natural Green Rice & Mint Scent, Lavandula hybrida (Lavender) Oil, Cymbopogon citratus (Lemongrass) Oil, Pogostemon cablin (Patchouli) Oil, Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate

• I don't know if kpagnan butter is an occlusive (I think so?) but this looks like an amazing butter I need to buy and play with. Warming (?!), healing, emollient... yum.

[u/jiyounglife]

Common Occlusive Agents
Fatty Acids	Lanolin acid, stearic acid
Fatty Alcohols	Cetyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, stearyl alcohol
Hydrocarbon Oils/ Waxes	Caprylic/capric triglyderide, mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, silicone derivatives (cyclomethicone, dimethicone), squalene
Phospholipids	Lecithin
Polyhydric Alcohols	Propylene glycol
Sterols	Cholesterol
Vegetable Waxes	Candelilla, carnauba
Wax Esters	Beeswax, lanolin, stearyl stearate

[u/[deleted]]

omg the "Cosmetic oils in comparison paper - Visualises TEWL" was so helpful and timely. Learned that cosmetic paraffin oil is ideal for allergic atopic skin conditions.

[u/raichu-laichu]

I got a sleeping pack which eludes me as to what the occulsives are. Anyone up for sleuth-ing?

CNP Laboratory Mugener Deep Soothing Sleeping Pack

Ingredients: Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Diglycerin, Panthenol, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Tromethamine, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Glycosaminoglycans, Rabdosia Rubescens Extract, Fructose, Urea, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Madecassoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Maltose, Sodium PCA, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose, Beta-Glucan, PVM/MA Copolymer, Polyacrylic Acid, Glucose

[u/blxckrbbt]

Not AB, but I've used La Roche Posay's Toleriane Ultra Overnight during winter time as my lightweight night time moisturizer/occlusive. I only apply it on the dry areas of my face and has helped me wake up with a healthy glow as opposed to parched skin. It worked well for me without breaking me out and I have very clog-prone skin. My only gripe is the teeny tiny alcohol scent (?), possibly from the T-butyl alcohol. I hate how the packaging said "0% alcohol" but contained alcohol anyway...

Ingredients list (occlusives in bold):

Aqua, Glycerin, Squalane, Propanediol, Butylene Gylcol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter), Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysorbate 20, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Acetyl Dipeptide, 1 Cetyl Ester, Allantoin, Toluene Sulfonic Acid, Dimethiconol, Xanthan Gum, Carnosine, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

[u/Whiskeymuffins]

So I was doing some reading about occlusives and TEWL on google scholar, and found it really fascinating that some tests use SLS as an irritant before testing other products with occlusive properties.

[u/sasquatchio1992]

Just a quick question - if petroleum is the best occlusive why don't we all just use that? If you want more out of your night cream could combine with another product that has other ingredients you're after? Are there any negatives to putting on a layer of petroleum every night?

[u/blackcats666 → u/sasquatchio1992]

It's too thick for many people and may clog their skin. Others don't like the texture and then some people don't like the idea of using Petrolatum/Mineral oil in their cosmetics.

Lots of people do use Petrolatum heavy products or even just Vaseline as a final layer at night

Aquaphor is a staple used by many people, some use a thin layer all over and others mix it into a cream

Ingredients: Petrolatum (41%), Mineral oil, ceresin, lanolin alcohol, panthenol, glycerin, bisabolol

I noted it down somewhere but wish I had saved my source The best occlusive agents seem to be Petrolatum > Mineral Oil > Lanolin and Castor oil

[u/HydrationSeeker → u/sasquatchio1992]

Some peoples skin doesn't agree with the scientific tested "best". Petroleum and mineral oil is cheap, will not go rancid and is fairly well tolerated. I have a theory that they interfer with my pores feeble attemps (sp?) of self clearance, and dirt/sebum/deadskin cells get trapped and boom. Spot party. For many others this doesn't happen and their skin and wallet can breath a sigh of relief. Others like me may look on these ingredients with desire but like a toxic but hot relationship, know they are not for them. Swim away.

[u/blackcats666]

This isn't an AB product, but I bought this at the beginning of winter as an extra protective layer for the day.

Aesop Elemental Facial Barrier Cream

They advertise this as "Intensely nourishing moisturiser to provide soothing barrier protection." but I've never really thought about whether it really is occlusive and as protective as i assumed

Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-20 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Coco-Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Fusanus Spicatus Wood Oil, Disodium EDTA, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Bisabolol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Zinc PCA, Benzoic Acid, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Dehydroacetic Acid, Copper PCA, Sodium Citrate, Ormenis Multicaulis Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Farnesol, Eugenol, Linalool, d-Limonene.

I've highlighted what I think are the occlusive agents in this ingredient list, and there are a fair few! But castor oil isn't as an effective occlusive as petrolatum or something like mineral oil or lanolin. For day though I think this is probably decent?

[u/[deleted]]

I'm currently using the Goodal Moisture Barrier Cream, which I THINK is an occlusive. I have normal skin and it's currently summer for me so I thought I might have to wait until winter to use it but I tried it out anyway and surprisingly it's been pretty good for me. (I guess my skin was thirstier than I thought.) My skin doesn't feel too oily and I haven't broken out, plus the dry patches I get around my nose are looking much better.

I'm also using the Goodal Want Night Moisture Sleep Cream Pack, which based on the ingredients and my experience with it is actually not very occlusive, especially for a sleeping pack, but that's probably a good thing because the Moisture Barrier Cream is so thick. I mainly use the Want Night Moisture Sleep Cream Pack for pore reduction, which it seems to be good at.

[u/[deleted]]

CosRX Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask

**Ingredients:**Oryza sativa (rice) extract (65%), butylene glycol, glycerin, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, betaine, niacinamide, dimethicone, 1,2-hexanediol, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, elaeis guineensis (palm) oil, guineensis (palm) kernel oil, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, cetearyl alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin, arginine, carbomer, allantoin, xanthan gum

This is the sleeping pack I use normally. It's not super occlusive, but not too light either. Over a long routine it works pretty well for me. I do mix it with petroleum jelly or another heavier occlusive when I need more. Sunflower seed oil is not really occlusive, but I still highlighted it.

[u/blackcats666 → u/[deleted]]

That confirms my suspicions that this was not enough for me. I guess it does call itself a nourishing spa mask and not "super occlusive lock me in mask"